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Troubleshooting Your Picky Ball Python: A Step-by-Step Guide

TL;DR: The Quick-Start Guide to Ending the Hunger Strike

In a rush? I understand. You just want your friend to eat. Here is the cheat sheet to troubleshooting your picky eater without the deep dive.

1. Check Your Thermostat First Before you change the menu, check the restaurant. 90% of feeding strikes happen because the snake is cold or dry. Is your basking spot between 90°F and 95°F? Is your humidity over 60%? If not, fix that first.

2. Stop Hovering Imagine trying to eat with a giant staring at you. It is stressful! These snakes need privacy. Ensure you have two tight hides and plenty of clutter. If you can see your snake easily, they feel exposed.

3. Heat It Up A cold rat feels like a rock to a python. Use a hairdryer to blast the rodent’s head until it hits 100°F. This tricks their heat pits into thinking the prey is alive and ready to go.

4. Know When To Wait Did you know healthy adults can go months without food? If it is winter or your snake is close to breeding weight, a fast is often biological, not behavioral. As long as they do not lose more than 10% of their weight, you can afford to be patient.

5. When To Call The Vet If you see mucus, hear wheezing, or notice rapid weight loss, put the rat away and call the doctor. Those are signs of infection, not stubbornness.

1. Introduction: The Paradox of Python regius

The Ball Python (Python regius), known in Europe as the Royal Python, presents a unique paradox to the herpetological community. It is simultaneously the most popular pet snake in the world, prized for its docile temperament, manageable size, and dazzling array of genetic morphs, and the source of the most frequent and frustrating husbandry challenges: the feeding strike. For the novice keeper, a Ball Python’s refusal to eat can be a source of profound anxiety, often interpreted as a personal failure or an immediate medical crisis. However, to the seasoned herpetologist or veterinary specialist, "anorexia" in this species is rarely a random act of stubbornness. It is a sophisticated biological signal.

To truly troubleshoot a picky eater, one must first dismantle the anthropomorphic lens through which we view our pets. Unlike domestic dogs or cats, which have been bred for millennia to align with human rhythms and social cues, the Ball Python remains a creature of the African savannah. Its instincts are ancient, honed by millions of years of evolution in the fluctuating environments of West and Central Africa, specifically regions like Ghana, Togo, and Benin. In the wild, these animals are terrestrial, secretive, and opportunistic ambush predators. They spend the vast majority of their daylight hours sequestered in the subterranean burrows of rodents or termite mounds, emerging only under the cover of darkness to hunt.

Their physiology is adapted to endure. As ectotherms with remarkably efficient metabolisms, Ball Pythons are evolutionarily designed to survive long periods of scarcity. The "dry season" in their natural habitat imposes a rhythm of fasting that is genetically encoded. Consequently, when a captive Ball Python refuses food, it is often executing a survival program triggered by an environmental cue. The snake is not "being difficult"; it is reacting to a perceived inconsistency in its world, whether that be a temperature drop of two degrees, a lack of humidity affecting its olfactory acuity, or a vibration that signals "predator" rather than "prey."

This report serves as an exhaustive, step-by-step guide to decoding that signal. We will move beyond the superficial advice of "try a different rat" and delve into the physiological, environmental, and psychological drivers of feeding behaviors. From the thermodynamics of digestion to the hormonal shifts of the "1000-gram wall," and from the nuances of scent-camouflaging to the critical intervention of assist-feeding, this document provides a comprehensive protocol for the keeper facing a fasting snake.



2. The Husbandry Audit: The Foundation of Feeding

The overwhelming consensus among herpetoculturists and veterinarians is that approximately 90% of feeding refusals in Ball Pythons are directly attributable to husbandry errors.1 Before examining the snake for illness or attempting exotic scenting tricks, the keeper must conduct a rigorous audit of the enclosure. The Ball Python is an animal that thrives on stability; even minor deviations in temperature or security can suppress the feeding response.

2.1 Thermodynamics: The Metabolic Engine

Reptiles are poikilotherms (ectotherms), meaning they rely entirely on environmental heat to fuel their metabolic processes. Digestion is an energetically expensive activity for a snake, known as Specific Dynamic Action (SDA). Following a meal, a python's metabolic rate can increase significantly as it breaks down bone, fur, and tissue. If the environmental temperature is insufficient to support the enzymatic reactions required for this breakdown, the food may rot in the stomach before it can be digested. This leads to regurgitation, a traumatic and potentially fatal event.

To avoid this risk, a Ball Python that senses inadequate heat will instinctively refuse to eat. It is a protective mechanism. Therefore, the thermal gradient within the enclosure is the single most critical variable to verify.

2.1.1 The Basking Spot (The Warm Side)

The "hot spot" or basking area is the engine room of the snake's digestion. This area must be maintained between 90°F and 95°F (31°C - 33°C).4

  • Measurement Precision: A common error is measuring the air temperature rather than the surface temperature. A wall-mounted analog thermometer might read 85°F, while the floor where the snake sits is only 78°F. Keepers must use a digital thermometer with a probe placed directly inside the warm hide, or an infrared temperature gun to measure the surface temp.1
  • The Consequence of Low Heat: If the hotspot drops below 90°F, the snake enters a state of metabolic conservation. The immune system slows, and appetite vanishes.
  • The Risk of Overheating: Temperatures exceeding 95°F (35°C) can induce neurological damage and stress, also leading to refusal.6

2.1.2 The Ambient Gradient (The Cool Side)

The cool side of the enclosure allows the snake to regulate its body temperature downward, preventing overheating. This area should maintain an ambient air temperature of 75°F to 80°F (24°C - 27°C).6

  • The Danger of Cold: Extended periods below 80°F are the primary cause of Respiratory Infections (RI). An RI will almost immediately cause anorexia, as the snake's sense of smell is compromised by mucus and its energy is diverted to fighting the infection.8
  • Night Cycles: While a slight nocturnal drop in temperature is natural, the ambient temperature should never fall below 75°F. Nighttime drops into the 60s are dangerous for this tropical species.5

2.1.3 Heating Methods and Control

The method of heating matters as much as the temperature itself.

  • Under Tank Heaters (UTH): These heat mats are popular for glass tanks and plastic tubs as they simulate the warm ground. However, they must be controlled by a thermostat. An unregulated heat mat can reach temperatures over 120°F, causing severe thermal burns.1
  • Overhead Heating (CHE/DHP): Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHE) or Deep Heat Projectors (DHP) are excellent for raising ambient air temperatures, which UTHs often fail to do. These should also be on a thermostat (dimming type preferred) to maintain stability.
  • Thermostats: The most important rule of reptile heating is that every single heat source must be connected to a thermostat.1 This device prevents overheating and ensures the stability that Ball Pythons crave.

2.2 Hydrodynamics: Humidity and Hydration

While temperature drives digestion, humidity drives respiratory health and the shedding cycle. In their West African habitat, Ball Pythons retreat into termite mounds and burrows that maintain a stable, high-humidity microclimate, even when the external savannah is dry.

2.2.1 The Optimal Range

The enclosure humidity should be maintained between 55% and 60% at a bare minimum, with many experts and breeders advocating for a higher range of 60% to 80% to mimic the burrow environment.5

2.2.2 The Mechanism of Refusal

Why does low humidity stop a snake from eating?

  1. Dehydration: Low humidity wicks moisture from the snake's permeable skin and lungs. Dehydration causes lethargy and suppresses appetite.
  2. Olfactory Impairment: Snakes rely on the Jacobson's organ to sense prey. This chemosensory organ requires a moist environment to function effectively. A dehydrated snake effectively has a "stuffy nose" and may not recognize the scent of food.
  3. Physical Discomfort: Chronic low humidity leads to dysecdysis (stuck shed). The physical discomfort of retained skin, particularly over the eyes (retained spectacles), creates stress that overrides the feeding instinct.9

2.2.3 Substrate Selection

The choice of substrate is the primary tool for managing humidity.

  • Recommended: Coconut husk (chips or fiber), cypress mulch, or orchid bark. These substrates hold moisture without molding, releasing it slowly to maintain ambient humidity.9
  • Avoid: Pine and Cedar. Cedar and Pine contain aromatic phenols that are toxic to reptiles and can cause neurological issues and respiratory damage.1



2.3 Spatial Psychology: The Security Imperative

A Ball Python is a small predator that is also prey for larger animals (birds of prey, monitors, carnivores). Their primary defense is crypsis—hiding. If a Ball Python feels exposed, its brain prioritizes "avoid predation" over "acquire calories."

2.3.1 The "Pet Rock" Theory

Keepers often joke that Ball Pythons are "pet rocks," but this inactivity is a sign of a secure snake. A snake that is pacing the glass, pushing at the lid, or striking at the sides ("glass surfing") is a stressed snake.12 This behavior indicates that the animal is frantically searching for a safer place. A stressed snake will not eat.

2.3.2 The Hide Box Rule

  • Quantity: An enclosure must have absolute minimum of two hides: one on the warm side and one on the cool side.1 This allows the snake to thermoregulate without having to choose between safety and temperature. If there is only one hide on the warm side, a snake might overheat rather than leave cover, or freeze on the cool side rather than expose itself to get warm.
  • Quality (The Tight Fit): Anthropomorphism leads many keepers to buy large, spacious caves for their pets. This is a mistake. Ball Pythons are thigmotactic they derive security from the sensation of touch. A secure hide is one where the snake touches all sides and the roof when coiled. It should be a tight squeeze. If the hide is too big, the snake feels vulnerable to predators entering the space.12

2.3.3 Enclosure Type and Clutter

  • Glass Aquariums: While visually appealing for humans, glass tanks are often terrible for Ball Pythons. They offer 360-degree visibility, making the snake feel exposed from all angles. If using a tank, the back and sides should be covered with an opaque material (black paper, scenic background) to create a "cave" effect.11
  • Tubs and PVC: Many breeders and experienced keepers prefer opaque plastic tubs or PVC enclosures. These hold humidity better than glass screens and provide the visual barrier that makes the snake feel secure.1
  • Clutter: Open space is the enemy. The floor of the enclosure should not be a barren plain of aspen. It should be littered with fake plants, branches, rocks, and cork bark. This allows the snake to move from the cool hide to the warm hide using "cryptic basking" behaviors, traversing the cage without ever feeling fully exposed.4

3. The Prey Variable: Nutrition and Presentation

Once the environment is stabilized, the focus shifts to the food itself. Ball Pythons are olfactory hunters, imprinting strongly on specific prey scents, temperatures, and types. A refusal may simply be a rejection of the menu, not a loss of appetite.

3.1 Prey Type: The Rodent Debate

3.1.1 Rats vs. Mice

In the wild, Python regius consumes a variety of rodents (including shrews and strip-grass mice) and birds. In captivity, the domestic rat (Rattus norvegicus) is the gold standard for nutrition.

  • Nutritional Density: Rats are significantly more calorically dense and higher in protein than mice. An adult Ball Python would require 5–6 adult mice to equal the mass and nutrition of a single medium rat. Feeding multiple small prey items is energetically inefficient and increases the risk of the snake losing interest halfway through the meal.1
  • Imprinting: Ball Pythons imprint on their prey type early in life. If a hatchling is fed exclusively on mice ("mousers"), they can be notoriously difficult to switch to rats later. It is highly recommended to transition snakes to rats as early as possible to avoid this "picky eater" syndrome in adulthood.1

3.1.2 African Soft-Furred Rats (ASFs)

The African Soft-Furred Rat (Mastomys natalensis) is the natural prey of the Ball Python in the wild. They are distinct from domestic rats and mice, possessing a unique scent that triggers an intense feeding response in Ball Pythons.

  • The "Magic Bullet": ASFs are often used as a breaker for long-term fasting snakes. The scent is often irresistible.
  • The Risk: The "crack cocaine" analogy is frequently used in the hobby. Some snakes, once fed ASFs, will refuse to eat anything else. Since ASFs are more expensive and harder to source than domestic rats, this can become a logistical nightmare for the keeper.2

3.1.3 Feathered Prey

Given that male Ball Pythons in the wild are known to exhibit semi-arboreal behaviors and hunt birds, offering a chick or quail can be an effective way to break a fast. This taps into a different predatory instinct and scent profile.2

3.2 Prey Size and Frequency

3.2.1 The 10-15% Rule

A common mistake is underfeeding or overfeeding. The prey item should be approximately 10% to 15% of the snake's body weight or roughly equal to the girth of the widest part of the snake's body.1

  • Hatchlings: Every 5–7 days.
  • Juveniles (200g - 500g): Every 7–10 days.
  • Sub-Adults/Adults: Every 10–14 days.

3.2.2 Overfeeding as a Cause of Refusal

Unlike dogs, snakes do not need to eat daily. Their digestive system requires a full cycle of upregulation, digestion, and downregulation. Offering food too frequently can lead to refusals simply because the animal is not hungry. If a snake refuses a meal, the standard protocol is to wait at least 7 days before offering again. Offering food every day ("stress feeding") only compounds the animal's stress and reinforces the refusal behavior.2

3.3 Presentation: The Art of the Zombie Dance

Ball Pythons hunt primarily via heat signatures sensed by the pits along their upper lip (labial pits). A dead, room-temperature rat is essentially invisible to them in the dark.

3.3.1 Frozen-Thawed (F/T) Mechanics

The vast majority of keepers feed frozen-thawed prey for safety (live rodents can bite and injure snakes) and convenience. However, proper preparation is key.

  1. Thawing: Thaw the rodent slowly in the refrigerator or in cold water. Never microwave a rodent; it cooks the meat and can cause the prey to explode, which is both messy and dangerous for the snake.14
  2. Warming: Once fully thawed, the prey must be warmed to a "living" body temperature, approximately 98°F - 100°F (37°C).14
  3. The Hairdryer Hack: A highly effective trick is to use a hairdryer to blast the head of the wet/damp rodent for 30 seconds just before feeding. This creates a focused "heat bloom" on the head, giving the snake a precise target to strike. This mimics the heat signature of a live animal's brain/head area.17

3.3.2 Mechanical Simulation

The prey must act alive. Using long feeding tongs (never fingers!), the keeper should grip the rat by the scruff or hips and "dance" it.

  • The Zombie Dance: Wiggle the rat slightly to simulate movement. Avoid moving it aggressively toward the snake's face, which triggers a defensive balling response. Instead, move it across the opening of the hide, mimicking a rodent passing by.
  • Tactile Triggers: Gently bumping the tail or rear of the snake with the soft fur of the prey can sometimes trigger a defensive strike that turns into a feeding coil.19

4. Seasonality and Physiology: When Fasting is Normal

One of the most difficult concepts for new keepers to accept is that a healthy Ball Python can, and often will, go months without eating. This is not necessarily a sign of illness; it is often a sign of a functioning biological clock.

4.1 The Winter Fast (Breeding Season)

In the wild, the breeding season for Ball Pythons coincides with the cooler, drier months (roughly November to February/March in the Northern Hemisphere captivity cycle). During this time, sexually mature snakes shift their focus from foraging to reproduction.

4.1.1 The Male Drive

Adult males are particularly prone to winter fasting. As the days shorten and ambient pressures change, testosterone levels rise. The drive to find a mate overrides the drive to eat. It is common for healthy males to refuse food for 3 to 6 months during the winter.1

  • Keeper Protocol: If an adult male refuses food in December, do not panic. Monitor his weight. Continue to offer food every 2–3 weeks, but do not resort to drastic measures unless body condition deteriorates visibly.

4.1.2 The "1000g Wall" in Females

Female Ball Pythons often hit a specific physiological milestone known in the hobby as "The Wall." This typically occurs when a female reaches between 800g and 1000g in weight.

  • Mechanism: This weight often correlates with the onset of sexual maturity. The development of egg follicles (vitellogenesis) alters the snake's hormonal profile and internal volume. The physical presence of developing follicles may make a large meal uncomfortable ("snake puberty").2
  • Duration: This fast can last for several months. Eventually, the female will either reabsorb the follicles or ovulate, after which her appetite will return with a vengeance to replenish the energy lost to reproduction.
  • Keeper Protocol: Like the male winter fast, this requires monitoring rather than intervention. Reduce feeding attempts to avoid wasting rats. Do not assist-feed a 1000g female hitting the wall; the stress could disrupt her reproductive cycle or cause health issues.2

4.2 Safe Weight Loss Limits

How does a keeper distinguish between a "safe" seasonal fast and "starvation"? The metric is weight, not time.

  • The 10% Rule: A healthy Ball Python typically loses very little weight during a seasonal fast, often less than 5% of its body mass over months because it downregulates its metabolism to conserve energy.
  • The Danger Zone: If a snake loses more than 10% of its body weight, or if the spine becomes prominent (a triangular cross-section) and the skin becomes loose or wrinkly, the fast has become pathological. This is the threshold for medical or nutritional intervention.20



4.3 Ecdysis (Shedding)

The shedding cycle is physically taxing and sensory-depriving. When a snake is "in blue" (the pre-ecdysis phase where the eyes turn cloudy/blue due to lymph fluid building up between the old and new skin layers), it is effectively blind and vulnerable.

  • Behavior: Most Ball Pythons will refuse food during this time.
  • Protocol: Do not offer food if you see signs of shedding (dull scales, pink belly, blue eyes). Wait until the snake has completed the shed. Feeding during shed consumes hydration needed for the skin separation process, often leading to a stuck shed or regurgitation.24

5. Medical Pathology: When Refusal is a Symptom

If the husbandry is perfect, the prey is correct, and the refusal is not seasonal (e.g., a hatchling refusing food or a snake losing rapid weight), medical pathology must be considered. Anorexia is a clinical symptom of almost every major reptile disease.

5.1 Respiratory Infection (RI)

Respiratory infections are the nemesis of Ball Python keepers. They are often caused by a combination of low temperatures (suppressing the immune system) and either too high or too low humidity (creating a breeding ground for bacteria).

  • Mechanism of Anorexia: RIs cause excess mucus production in the respiratory tract and oral cavity. This blocks the choanae (internal nostrils) and the Jacobson's organ. If the snake cannot smell the food, it does not register it as prey. Furthermore, with compromised breathing, the snake may be reluctant to obstruct its airway further with a large meal.8
  • Symptoms: Wheezing, audible clicking/popping when breathing, excess saliva ("bubbles") at the mouth/nostrils, holding the head elevated at a 45-degree angle (to drain mucus), or open-mouth breathing (gasping).8
  • Treatment: Veterinary intervention is mandatory. Culture and sensitivity tests are needed to prescribe the correct antibiotic (e.g., Ceftazidime, Fortaz). Nebulization with F10SC disinfectant is often used as supportive therapy.

5.2 Infectious Stomatitis ("Mouth Rot")

Stomatitis is an infection of the oral lining (gums and tissue). It can start from a minor injury (e.g., striking the cage glass) or as a secondary infection from an RI.

  • Mechanism: The infection causes pain and inflammation. The snake may show interest in food (tracking the rat) but shy away at the last second, or strike and then immediately release the prey due to pain.26
  • Symptoms: Red/inflamed gums, pinpoint hemorrhages (petechiae), caseous (cheese-like) yellow or white pus in the mouth, swelling of the jaw.26
  • Treatment: Requires veterinary debridement (cleaning) of the necrotic tissue and a course of antibiotics.

5.3 Parasites

Internal parasites (endoparasites) such as nematodes, tapeworms, and flagellates can wreak havoc on a snake's digestive tract.

  • Mechanism: A heavy parasite load can cause nausea, bloating, and malabsorption. The snake feels "full" or ill and refuses to eat.
  • Symptoms: Regurgitation, abnormal stool (runny, extremely foul-smelling, or bloody), and weight loss despite eating (in early stages) followed by anorexia.10
  • Diagnosis: A simple fecal float test performed by a vet.
  • Treatment: Targeted dewormers (e.g., Panacur, Flagyl) prescribed by a vet.

5.4 Impaction

Impaction occurs when a snake ingests indigestible substrate (like wood chips or gravel) that blocks the intestines.

  • Risk Factors: Feeding on loose substrate (like large bark chips) where the substrate sticks to the wet rodent.
  • Symptoms: Failure to defecate, firm lump palpable in the lower third of the body, anorexia.10
  • Prevention: Feed on a clean surface (flip a hide over or use a paper plate) or use fine, digestible substrates like coconut fiber.

6. The Toolkit of Enticement: "Hacks" for the Picky Eater

If medical issues are ruled out and husbandry is verified, you are likely dealing with a stubborn behavioral refusal. At this stage, you can employ a "ladder of escalation" using various tricks to trigger a feeding response.

6.1 Scenting Techniques (The "Trojan Horse")

Scenting involves masking the smell of the domestic rat with a scent that is more potent or biologically attractive to the snake.

  1. ASF Scenting: If you cannot source African Soft-Furred rats, you can buy "ASF Juice" (liquid scent) from suppliers like Reptilinks. Thaw a normal rat, apply a few drops of the scent, and offer it. This tricks the snake into thinking it is getting its natural prey.29
  2. Gerbil Scenting: Gerbils are closely related to the natural prey of Ball Pythons. Rubbing a frozen-thawed rat with dirty gerbil bedding (available from a pet store) can be highly effective.13
  3. Chicken Broth: Dipping the head of the thawed rat in warm, sodium-free chicken broth provides a novel, meaty scent that can trigger opportunistic scavenging instincts.31

6.2 Braining (The "Grisly Hack")

Braining is a graphic but notoriously effective technique for hatchlings or stubborn snakes.

  • The Theory: In the wild, a predator might encounter an injured animal. The scent of brain matter and blood is a primal trigger indicating a high-value, easy meal.
  • The Method: Take a frozen-thawed mouse or rat. Use a sterilized needle or scalpel to make a small incision in the skull, exposing a small amount of brain matter. Smear this fluid on the nose of the prey item. The intense olfactory signal often triggers an immediate strike.31

6.3 Environmental and Behavioral Tactics

  1. The Paper Bag Method: Place the snake and the prey (pre-killed or F/T only—NEVER live) inside a small brown paper bag. Fold the top shut and place the bag back in the enclosure overnight.
  • Why it works: The confined space forces the snake to be in close proximity to the prey scent, while the bag provides a feeling of complete security/darkness.31
  1. Total Darkness: Ball Pythons are nocturnal. Try feeding at 2 AM with all lights off. Even the ambient light from a TV or streetlamp can be enough to distract a shy snake.4
  2. The "Drop Feed": Some snakes are shy feeders who are intimidated by the keeper's presence or the tongs. Simply placing the warmed rat near the entrance of the hide and leaving the room (lights out) for 24 hours can work wonders. This is effectively "dead prey simulation" or scavenging.4

7. The Last Resort: Assisted Intervention

When a snake has crossed the threshold of dangerous weight loss (>15-20%) and all enticement methods have failed, intervention may be necessary. These techniques carry high stress and risk and should only be employed when the animal's life is at risk.

7.1 Assist Feeding

Assist feeding is distinct from force-feeding. The goal is to trigger the snake's natural swallowing reflex, not to push food into the stomach.

  • Target Audience: Usually reserved for hatchlings that have never eaten on their own or severely emaciated animals.
  • Protocol:
  1. Secure the snake gently behind the head.
  2. Use a small prey item (pinky or fuzzy mouse/rat).
  3. Gently use the nose of the prey to open the snake's mouth.
  4. Place the head of the prey into the snake's mouth and gently close the jaws over it.
  5. Wait. Often, once the teeth are engaged (the "velcro" effect of recurved teeth), the snake's feeding instinct will kick in, and it will finish swallowing on its own.
  6. Place the snake gently back in the enclosure immediately.
  • Risk: High stress. If done incorrectly, it can cause the snake to associate food with trauma.22

7.2 Force Feeding (Tube Feeding)

Force-feeding is a medical procedure involving the insertion of a catheter or tube down the esophagus to deposit a liquid diet (like Carnivore Care or an egg/supplement slurry) directly into the stomach.

  • Warning: This should only be performed by a veterinarian or an extremely experienced professional.
  • Risks: Aspiration pneumonia (if liquid enters the trachea), esophageal rupture, and extreme stress leading to death. It is a life-saving measure, not a husbandry tool.35

8. Conclusion: The Keeper's Mindset

Troubleshooting a picky Ball Python is a rite of passage for every keeper. It requires a shift in mindset from "owner" to "observer." The snake is not malfunctioning; it is responding to its world.

The vast majority of cases are resolved not by force, but by finesse by adjusting a thermostat, switching to a tighter hide, or simply waiting for the season to change. The protocol described here Audit, Assess, Entice, and only then, Intervene, prioritizes the welfare of the animal and relies on biological principles rather than guesswork. Patience is the primary tool. A Ball Python is a survivor, built to endure the harshness of the African dry season. As keepers, our role is to replicate the safety of the burrow, and let nature take its course.

Summary Checklist for the Keeper

Phase

Action Item

Target Metric / Note

1. Audit

Check Hot Spot Temp

90°F - 95°F (Surface temp, not air)

Check Cool Side Temp

75°F - 80°F

Check Humidity

60% - 80%

Check Security

2+ tight hides, blacked-out sides, clutter.

2. Assess

Weigh Snake

Is weight loss >10%?

Check Shed Status

Are eyes blue/milky? (If yes, wait).

Check for Illness

Mucus, wheezing, mouth rot? (If yes, Vet).

3. Offer

Prey Temp

Warm to 98°F - 100°F (Hairdryer trick).

Prey Size

10-15% of body weight.

Time of Day

Feed at night/dark.

4. Entice

Braining

Expose brain matter for scent.

Scenting

Use ASF juice or gerbil bedding.

Paper Bag Method

Confine snake with food overnight.

Disclaimer: This report is for educational purposes and does not replace professional veterinary advice. If your animal shows signs of severe illness (respiratory distress, extreme emaciation), consult a reptile veterinarian immediately.

Works cited

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  3. Feeding Strikes - WHERE MY SCALES SLITHER, accessed January 14, 2026, https://wheremyscalesslither.weebly.com/feeding-strikes.html
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  5. HOW TO KEEP YOUR BALL PYTHON HEALTHY, HAPPY AND SAFE!, accessed January 14, 2026, https://amccorona.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/ARAV_trifold_ball_pythonv2_2.pdf
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  7. Snake might have mouth rot and has general feeding problems - help? : r/ballpython - Reddit, accessed January 14, 2026, https://www.reddit.com/r/ballpython/comments/354awi/snake_might_have_mouth_rot_and_has_general/
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  9. Stuck Shed: Why It Happens and How to Safely Help Your Reptile, accessed January 14, 2026, https://thetyedyediguana.com/blog/stuck-shed-why-it-happens-and-how-to-safely-help-your-reptile/
  10. Why Your Ball Python Won't Eat and What to Do - Chewy, accessed January 14, 2026, https://www.chewy.com/education/reptile-and-amphibian/snake/ball-python-not-eating
  11. Ball Python Care Guide - BeWild Rescue - MorphMarket Reptile Community, accessed January 14, 2026, https://community.morphmarket.com/t/ball-python-care-guide/39828
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