The First 72 Hours: A Comprehensive Protocol for the Physiological Stabilization and Husbandry of Newly Translocated Reptiles

TL;DR: The 72-Hour Survival Protocol

For those requiring an immediate operational checklist, the following summarizes the critical actions and prohibitions for the first three days.

Arrival (Hours 0–24):

Action: Unbox the animal immediately into a fully calibrated quarantine enclosure.
Hydration: Provide fresh, dechlorinated water immediately. Mist heavily for tropical species to spike humidity.
The Prohibition: Do NOT handle the animal. Once they are in the cage, cover the glass sides to reduce visual stress and walk away.

Stabilization (Hours 24–48):

Action: Verify thermal gradients using an infrared temp gun. Ensure the basking spot is at the target temperature (e.g., 100°F+ for Bearded Dragons).
Nutrition: Do NOT feed. Digestion requires energy and heat; a stressed animal is prone to regurgitation. Wait until the animal settles.

Assessment (Hours 48–72):

Action: Perform a visual health check through the glass (eyes clear, breathing silent). Establish the 12-hour light/dark cycle.
The Golden Rule: The "Hands-Off" period lasts for a minimum of 1–2 weeks. Interaction before this period resets the stress clock.

I. Introduction: The Biological Impact of Translocation

The acquisition of a reptilian specimen, whether a neonate from a specialized breeder or a mature rescue, represents a definitive moment of stewardship. However, for the animal in question, this event is not a beginning but rather a profound disruption. The process of moving a reptile from one environment to another technically termed translocation induces a cascade of physiological and psychological stressors that, if mismanaged, can precipitate long-term health crises. The first 72 hours of ownership are consequently the most critical window in the lifespan of the captive animal. This period is not designed for interaction, display, or bonding; rather, it constitutes a biological triage phase known as stabilization.1

During this initial window, the animal’s neuroendocrine system functions in a state of hyperarousal. Transportation vibration, temperature fluctuations, and the loss of familiar sensory markers trigger the release of glucocorticoids, primarily corticosterone in reptiles. These stress hormones mobilize energy for immediate survival ("fight or flight") but simultaneously suppress non-essential long-term functions such as digestion, immune response, and growth.1 The immediate objective for the keeper is to act as an environmental engineer, constructing a habitat that reduces sensory input and facilitates the re-establishment of homeostasis.

This report provides an exhaustive, evidence-based analysis of the first 72 hours. It synthesizes veterinary protocols, laboratory animal welfare guidelines, and advanced husbandry standards to guide the keeper through the delicate process of transitioning a reptile from a state of transit-induced stress to one of secure residency. By adhering to a strict "hands-off" acclimation protocol, the keeper mitigates the risk of "relocation stress," a syndrome characterized by anorexia, lethargy, and susceptibility to opportunistic pathogens.3

II. The Physiology of Stress and the Acclimation Imperative

To implement effective care protocols, one must first understand the biological reality of a reptile entering a new environment. Unlike endothermic mammals, which possess internal mechanisms to regulate body temperature and a higher baseline metabolic rate, reptiles are ectotherms. They rely entirely on external thermal gradients to fuel their metabolism, immune system, and digestive enzymatic processes. When this reliance is coupled with the instinctual behaviors of a prey species, the potential for stress-induced pathology becomes acute.

2.1 The Laboratory Standard for Acclimation

The concept of acclimation is rigorously defined in scientific research. According to guidelines for the care of laboratory animals, rodents and non-mammalian vertebrates, including reptiles, require a mandatory acclimation period of at least 48 to 72 hours before they can be utilized for data collection or experimental procedures.1 This period allows for the stabilization of physiological baselines that have been skewed by shipping stress.

In a domestic setting, this translates to a strict prohibition on handling. Research indicates that animals subjected to immediate manipulation upon arrival exhibit prolonged spikes in stress hormones, which can invalidate experimental data in a lab and induce illness in a pet.1 For the hobbyist, the implication is clear: the animal is "in recovery" from the moment it arrives. The 72-hour window is a buffer zone where the animal is allowed to map its new territory without the added threat of predation which is how a reptile perceives handling by a large primate.3

2.2 Neuroendocrine Responses to Novel Environments

When a reptile is introduced to a novel enclosure, it lacks a cognitive map of its resources. It is unaware of the location of thermoregulatory zones, hydration points, or secure refugia. This uncertainty triggers the sympathetic nervous system. Acute stress, caused by the journey and unboxing, manifests in immediate behaviors such as rapid respiration, gaping (open-mouth breathing), flightiness, or tonic immobility (freezing).4

If the keeper intrudes during this vulnerable phase through excessive handling, forced feeding, or frequent environmental rearrangement acute stress can transition into chronic stress. Chronic stress is insidious; it elevates baseline corticosterone levels, which in turn inhibits the production of lymphocytes, leaving the animal vulnerable to viral, bacterial, and fungal infections.7 Furthermore, stress is a primary cause of anorexia in reptiles. A stressed reptile will prioritize security over nutrition, leading to refusal of food and subsequent weight loss.8

III. Phase 1: Pre-Arrival Architecture and Biosecurity

The success of the first 72 hours is determined largely by actions taken prior to the animal's arrival. A "soft release" into the new environment requires that all life support systems be fully operational, calibrated, and tested. Furthermore, the concept of biosecurity must be addressed through a rigorous quarantine protocol.

3.1 The Quarantine Protocol

Regardless of the source of the new reptile whether a high-end breeder or a rescue or the status of the keeper's existing collection, a quarantine setup is mandatory. Quarantine serves two distinct purposes: it protects existing animals from potential pathogens carried by the newcomer, and it allows for close monitoring of the new animal's health outputs (feces, urates) without the visual obstruction of complex decor.10

3.1.1 The Sterile "Clinical" Setup

A quarantine enclosure differs fundamentally from a permanent, naturalistic display. It acts as a surveillance chamber designed for hygiene and observation.

Substrate Selection: For the first 72 hours and the duration of quarantine (typically 30-90 days), paper towels are the substrate of choice.10 They are hygienic, inexpensive, and, crucially, they allow for the immediate visual inspection of defecation. Mites (black specks), parasitic worms, and bloody stool are instantly visible on white paper towels, whereas they might be lost in coconut fiber or bioactive soil.10
Minimalist Furnishings: The enclosure should contain only the essentials such as; hides, water bowl, and heat source. Complex decor such as cork bark or porous wood is difficult to sterilize and should be avoided in the initial setup. If the animal is found to carry a contagious disease, porous items must often be discarded, whereas plastic hides can be bleached and reused.10
The Hygiene Barrier: When managing multiple animals, the new arrival must be attended to last. This creates a procedural barrier, preventing the keeper from transferring pathogens (viruses like Nidovirus or bacteria like Salmonella) from the new, potentially compromised animal to the established, healthy collection.10

3.2 Environmental Calibration and "Burn-In"

The enclosure must be fully operational for at least 24 hours before the animal is introduced. This "burn-in" period ensures that thermostats are regulating correctly and that the thermal gradient is stable.

The Thermal Gradient: Reptiles act as thermal conductors. They require a range of temperatures to thermoregulate, moving between heat sources and cooler zones to optimize metabolic function.5 A single ambient temperature is insufficient and dangerous. There must be a distinct hot side (basking zone) and a cool side.
Thermostat Necessity: All heating elements must be regulated by a thermostat. Unregulated heat mats or ceramic emitters can overheat, causing thermal burns or fatal hyperthermia. Pulse-proportional or dimming thermostats are preferred for their ability to maintain precise temperatures without the stress-inducing "on/off" flashing of light-emitting bulbs.3
Hygrometry Stabilization: Humidity levels must be stabilized prior to introduction. For tropical species like Correlophus ciliatus (Crested Gecko) or Ranoidea caerulea (White's Tree Frog), the substrate may need to be pre-moistened to achieve the required base humidity, while verifying that ventilation is sufficient to prevent stagnant air and mold growth.11

Table 1: Critical Environmental Parameters for Common Starter Species

Species	Basking Temp (Surface)	Warm Ambient	Cool Ambient	Night Drop	Humidity Strategy	UVB Requirement
Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps)	100-110°F	90-95°F	75-80°F	>65°F	Arid: 20-40%	High (Ferguson Zone 3-4) 3
Crested Gecko (Correlophus ciliatus)	N/A (Keep <85°F)	75-82°F	70-75°F	65-72°F	Cycle: Spike to 80%, dry to 50%	Low (Ferguson Zone 1) 11
Ball Python (Python regius)	88-92°F (Hot Spot)	86-88°F	76-80°F	>75°F	Tropical: 60-80%	Low/Optional (Zone 1-2) 13
White's Tree Frog (Ranoidea caerulea)	N/A	75-85°F	70-75°F	68-72°F	High: 50-70% + Daily Misting	Low (Zone 1) 12

IV. Phase 2: Arrival and Deployment (Hour 0 to Hour 24)

The clock begins the moment the animal enters the home. This period is often the most stressful due to the immediate and radical change in sensory input. The keeper's actions during the transfer from the transport container to the enclosure sets the trajectory for the animal's recovery.

4.1 The Unboxing and Transfer Protocol

Whether the animal arrives in a deli cup from a local breeder or a carrier from a retail environment, the transfer to the enclosure should be swift, deliberate, and strictly utilitarian.

Visual Triage: Perform a "hands-off" visual check while the animal is still in the transport container. Look for alertness, clear eyes, and normal respiration.14 This is the first step in the health audit.
The Transfer Mechanism: Gently place the transport container inside the enclosure and open it, allowing the animal to emerge at its own pace. This method, often called a "soft release," reduces the trauma of being grabbed. If the animal must be physically moved, scoop it gently from below, supporting the full body. It is imperative to never grab a lizard by the tail or swoop down from above, actions that mimic the attack vectors of predatory birds and trigger panic responses.3
Immediate Privacy: Once the animal is in the enclosure, close the door and walk away. The urge to watch, photograph, or interact must be suppressed. Some experts recommend covering the glass sides of the tank with paper or a towel for the first 24 hours to reduce visual stimuli and increase the sense of security, particularly for shy species like Ball Pythons.16

4.2 Hydration: The Primary Physiological Priority

While reptiles are evolutionarily adapted to survive extended periods without food, dehydration is an immediate and critical threat, especially following the dry conditions often associated with shipping and transport.

Water Availability: Fresh, dechlorinated water must be immediately available. For species that do not recognize standing water (such as chameleons), a dripper or automated misting system is required to stimulate drinking. For others, a shallow, sturdy bowl that cannot be tipped over is sufficient.12
Humidity Spikes for Tropicals: For tropical species, a heavy misting upon arrival helps spike humidity (80%+) and encourages the animal to lick droplets from foliage or enclosure walls, a primary behavior for rehydration.11
Amphibian Specifics: Frogs possess semi-permeable skin through which they absorb water and environmental chemicals. It is critical that all water used for misting or soaking is dechlorinated using a reptile-safe water conditioner. Unfiltered tap water containing chlorine, chloramines, or heavy metals can be toxic and cause immediate health decline.12

4.3 The "No Handling" Mandate

The most frequent error committed by new keepers is the premature handling of the animal. The consensus among herpetological experts is a minimum "settling in" period of one to two weeks, but the first 72 hours are non-negotiable.5

The Predator-Prey Dynamic: Handling is fundamentally an interaction between a predator (the human) and a prey animal (the reptile). Until the reptile learns through repeated, neutral exposure that the environment is safe, handling is perceived as a life-threatening event.
Exceptions to the Rule: Handling is permitted only for essential health triage (e.g., removing a stuck shed that constricts blood flow) or if the animal is in immediate danger (e.g., a collapsed hide).
Consequences of Violation: Rushing this process can lead to long-term defensiveness, often mislabeled as "cage aggression," or a refusal to eat. Ball Pythons are particularly notorious for engaging in hunger strikes if stressed by early handling, a behavior that can persist for months.13

V. Phase 3: Observation and Stabilization (Hour 24 to Hour 48)

By the second day, the animal should have located a hiding spot and begun to map the thermal resources of the enclosure. The keeper's role transitions from deployment to active surveillance.

5.1 Remote Observation Techniques

Observation during this phase should be passive and non-intrusive. The goal is to verify that the animal is thermoregulating and not in physical distress without intruding on its perceived territory.

Thermoregulatory Verification: Is the animal moving between the warm and cool sides? A reptile that remains permanently on the cool side may be stressed, or the basking spot may be too hot. Conversely, an animal glued to the heat source for 48 hours without moving may be ill (seeking "behavioral fever") or the ambient temperatures may be too low.4
Postural Indicators of Stress:

Healthy behaviors include relaxed limb positioning, sleeping within hides, and alertness when awake.
Stress behaviors include gaping (open mouth breathing not associated with thermoregulation), flattening the body (to absorb heat or appear larger), darker skin coloration, or frantic "glass surfing" (persistent attempts to escape through transparent barriers).3

Cryptic Behavior: It is biologically appropriate for a new reptile to hide for 90% of the time during the first 72 hours. A Ball Python or Leopard Gecko that is invisible for the first two days is acting correctly. Conversely, a nocturnal animal that is active and exposed during the day is often signaling distress or a lack of suitable hiding spots.6

5.2 Environmental Auditing

Use digital thermometers and hygrometers to verify environmental parameters. Stick-on analog gauges are notoriously inaccurate and should be disregarded in favor of digital probes or infrared temperature guns.3

The Infrared Temp Gun: This tool allows the keeper to instantly measure surface temperatures at various points in the enclosure, ensuring the basking spot is within the safe range (e.g., 100-110°F for Bearded Dragons) without opening the cage and disturbing the animal.3
Ventilation Check: Assess airflow. If condensation is persistent on the glass (except immediately after misting), ventilation may be inadequate. Stagnant air combined with high heat creates a breeding ground for bacteria and fungi, leading to respiratory infections.7

5.3 The Feeding Question: To Feed or Not to Feed?

New keepers often experience anxiety if the animal does not eat immediately. However, the physiological rule of thumb is to not offer food for the first 24-48 hours.16

Digestive Physiology and Stress: Digestion is an energetically expensive process that requires heat. A stressed animal directs blood flow to muscles and sensory organs for defense, effectively shutting down the digestive tract. If fed too soon, the animal may regurgitate the meal. Regurgitation is physically traumatic, strips the esophagus of protective mucus, and causes significant dehydration.9
The First Offering: After 48 hours, if the animal appears calm (e.g., exploring at night, drinking), a small, non-threatening meal may be offered.

Snakes: It is generally recommended to wait at least 5-7 days before the first feeding attempt to ensure the animal is fully secure.13
Lizards/Frogs: Offer a small amount of live insects or prepared diet. If the food is not consumed within 15 minutes (for live insects) or overnight (for powder diets), it must be removed to prevent stress from crawling insects or spoilage.16

Refusal is Normal: It is not uncommon for a reptile to refuse food for the first week or longer. Unless the animal is visibly emaciated or a very young neonate with low reserves, a short fast is not a medical emergency.8

VI. Phase 4: Assessment and Routine (Hour 48 to Hour 72)

By the third day, the "shock" of arrival typically subsides into a state of "alert caution." The keeper can now begin to establish the routine that will define the animal's life, focusing on photoperiods and health baselines.

6.1 Establishing the Photoperiod

A consistent light/dark cycle is crucial for regulating the animal's circadian rhythm.

Lighting Schedule: Lights should be on for 12-14 hours and off for 10-12 hours. This predictability helps the animal anticipate warming and cooling periods, which drives metabolic cycles.11
Nighttime Darkness: Use ceramic heat emitters (CHE) or deep heat projectors (DHP) for night heat if necessary. These devices emit infrared heat without visible light. Do not use red or blue "night lights," as these wavelengths are visible to reptiles and will disrupt their sleep cycle and induce stress.3

6.2 Health Triage Checklist (Visual Only)

At the 72-hour mark, perform a detailed visual health check. This should be done through the glass or during brief maintenance (e.g., water change) to minimize handling.

Table 2: Visual Health Indicators

Anatomical Area	Signs of Health	Signs of Distress/Illness
Eyes	Clear, bright, responsive to movement.	Sunken (dehydration), cloudy (retained eye caps or infection), discharge.14
Skin/Scales	Elastic, intact, normal color.	Wrinkled (dehydration), stuck shed, wounds, presence of mites (moving black dots).14
Respiration	Mouth closed, silent breathing.	Gaping, bubbling at nose/mouth, audible wheezing or clicking.13
Mobility	Coordinated, strong grip, lifts body off ground.	Tremors (neurological/calcium deficiency), dragging limbs, lethargy.4
Behavior	Alert, retreating to hides, thermoregulating.	Tonic immobility, panic, aggression, spending prolonged time in water bowl (mites).4

6.3 Cleaning and Maintenance

Spot cleaning should be performed daily to maintain hygiene without disrupting the enclosure significantly.

Waste Removal: Remove feces and urates immediately. In a quarantine setup with paper towels, this involves simply replacing the soiled sheet. This prevents the buildup of ammonia and bacteria.22
Biofilm Management: Water bowls should be scrubbed and refilled daily. Biofilms—slimy layers of bacteria—can form quickly in standing water and can harbor pathogens dangerous to the reptile.12

VII. Deep Dive: Species-Specific Strategies for the First 72 Hours

While general principles apply, specific orders of reptiles require tailored approaches during the stabilization phase. The following sections detail the unique needs of four common reptile groups.

**7.1 The Arboreal Specialist: Crested Geckos (*Correlophus ciliatus***)

Crested Geckos are sensitive to heat and dehydration. Their stabilization relies on the correct management of the humidity cycle.

The Humidity Trap: New keepers often keep the enclosure constantly wet in an attempt to provide "tropical" conditions. This promotes bacterial growth and mold. The cycle is key: Mist heavily at night (80-100%) to allow for drinking, then allow the enclosure to dry out to 50% during the day. This dry period is essential for preventing skin infections and respiratory issues.11
Feeding Protocol: Do not be alarmed if lick-marks in the Crested Gecko Diet (CGD) are invisible. Hatchlings consume minute amounts. To monitor eating, place a very thin layer of food in the cup so tongue marks are visible. Do not offer insects in the first 72 hours; stick to the complete diet to ensure nutritional balance.11
Temperature Warning: These animals are extremely heat-sensitive. Ensure the cage is not placed in direct sunlight where the greenhouse effect could spike internal temperatures above 85°F. Prolonged exposure to temperatures >85°F can be rapidly fatal.11

**7.2 The Basking Nomad: Bearded Dragons (*Pogona vitticeps***)

Bearded Dragons are high-energy heliotherms (sun-lovers) that require intense light and heat to function.

Lighting Intensity: The most critical factor in the first 72 hours is the presence of high-quality UVB and bright white light. Without this, the dragon’s activity levels and appetite will plummet. A tube UVB (T5 HO) covering 1/2 to 2/3 of the tank is non-negotiable.3
Relocation Stress: Bearded dragons often suffer from "relocation stress," manifesting as dark stress marks on the belly and a refusal to eat. This can last 3-4 days. Continue to offer fresh greens daily, but do not flood the tank with crickets that might bite a sleeping, stressed dragon. Remove all uneaten insects immediately.3
Hydration: They may not recognize standing water. A gentle misting on the snout or a shallow warm soak (only if severe dehydration is suspected) can stimulate drinking behavior. However, rely primarily on fresh vegetables for hydration during the first few days.19

**7.3 The Shy Recluse: Ball Pythons (*Python regius***)

Ball Pythons are notorious for stress-related fasting. Their stabilization depends entirely on their sense of security.

The Security Code: If a Ball Python is striking or refusing food, the enclosure is likely too open. They require tight-fitting hides (the snake should touch all sides when curled up) to feel secure. If the snake is pacing, cover the sides of the tank with opaque material to reduce visibility.13
The Humidity Factor: Screen-top tanks often vent humidity too fast. Modifying the top with HVAC tape or plexiglass to retain humidity (60%+) is a common fix required in the first few days to prevent respiratory issues and bad sheds. This should be addressed immediately upon setup.15
Feeding Restraint: Do not attempt to feed a Ball Python until it has been in the home for at least one week. Offering food earlier usually results in refusal and reinforces a negative association with the feeding ritual.16

**7.4 The Sensitive Amphibian: White's Tree Frog (*Ranoidea caerulea***)

Amphibians are indicator species with highly permeable skin, making them uniquely vulnerable to environmental toxins.

Skin Permeability: Frogs absorb chemicals through their skin. Any residue on the keeper's hands (lotion, soap, natural oils) can harm them. If handling is necessary for transfer, wear powder-free nitrile gloves or wash hands thoroughly and rinse with dechlorinated water.12
The Ventilation/Humidity Balance: Stagnant air is a killer. High humidity (70%+) must be paired with active airflow. If the glass is constantly fogged, ventilation is insufficient, leading to bacterial skin infections. The enclosure must breathe.12
Dietary Considerations: Frogs are visual hunters. They may not eat if the prey doesn't move. However, ensure insects are not too large (distance between eyes rule) to prevent impaction. Supplements (Calcium + D3) are critical if UVB is not provided, but must be used carefully to avoid toxicity.12

VIII. Common Pitfalls and Troubleshooting

Even with meticulous preparation, issues can arise. The following are the most frequent errors made during the first 72 hours and strategies to mitigate them.

8.1 The "Room Temperature" Fallacy

Many keepers assume "room temperature" is sufficient for reptiles. It is not. Most homes fluctuate between 68-72°F. This is too cold for digestion for almost all reptiles, including temperate species. A thermostat-controlled heat source is mandatory to provide a gradient that allows the animal to raise its body temperature to optimal levels (often 88°F+) for enzymatic function.5

8.2 The "Helicopter Parent" Syndrome

Over-checking, tapping on the glass, or rearranging decor to "get a better look" resets the animal's stress clock. If the animal is hiding, let it hide. Hiding is a sign that the animal is self-regulating its security needs. Disrupting this behavior forces the animal into the open, increasing cortisol levels and delaying acclimation.6

8.3 Feeding Errors

Live Prey Dangers: Leaving live crickets or superworms in the tank with a reptile that isn't eating is dangerous. Hungry insects will chew on the reptile's soft tissues (eyes, toes, tail tip). Always remove uneaten live food after 15-30 minutes.23
Wrong Size: Feeding prey that is too large can cause regurgitation or impaction. The general rule is that prey should be no wider than the space between the animal's eyes or the widest part of its body. Offering smaller meals is safer than risking a large meal that cannot be digested.15

8.4 Thermostat Failure

A heat source plugged directly into the wall without a thermostat is a fire hazard and a risk to the animal. Heat mats can reach over 120°F unregulated, causing thermal burns. Every heat source needs a dedicated thermostat to ensure safety.3

IX. Moving Beyond 72 Hours: The Path to Interaction

Once the 72-hour stabilization period is complete, the keeper enters the "Acclimation Phase" (weeks 1-3). This is where the foundation for future interaction is laid.

9.1 Gradual Interaction and Taming

Hand Feeding: This is often the first bridge to interaction. Using tongs to offer insects allows the animal to associate the keeper with positive reinforcement (food) rather than predation.8
The "Hand inside the Tank" Method: For skittish lizards, simply resting a hand inside the enclosure for 5-10 minutes daily without trying to touch the animal allows them to habituate to the scent and presence of the keeper.11

9.2 First Handling Sessions

Timing: Wait until the animal is eating regularly (for snakes, 2-3 consecutive meals; for lizards, consistent daily feeding).
Technique: Keep sessions short (5 minutes). Keep the animal close to the floor or over a soft surface (bed/couch) to prevent injury from falls. Use the "treadmilling" technique for jumpy geckos (hand-over-hand walking) to allow them to move without feeling restrained.5

9.3 Record Keeping

Start a logbook immediately. Record weight (grams) weekly, feeding (type and quantity), defecation/shedding dates, and daily temperatures/humidity. This data is invaluable for spotting long-term trends or health declines before they become critical.5

X. Conclusion

The first 72 hours of reptile ownership are an exercise in restraint. The keeper’s instinct is to nurture through touch and interaction, but the reptile’s need is for solitude and stability. By prioritizing environmental engineering over interaction, utilizing a quarantine setup, and strictly adhering to the "hands-off" rule, the keeper provides the animal with the greatest gift possible: the safety to decompress. This initial investment in patience pays dividends in the long term, resulting in an animal that eats well, has a robust immune system, and eventually becomes a calm and tractable captive. The journey of a thousand handling sessions begins with three days of leaving the animal alone.

Appendix: Emergency Preparedness and First Aid

In the event of power outages or medical emergencies during the first 72 hours, an emergency kit is essential.

Emergency Kit Checklist

Derived from 20

UniHeat Shipping Warmers (40+ hour packs): For power outages. Note: Do not place directly against the animal; use a towel buffer to prevent burns.
Unflavored Pedialyte: For rehydration baths in cases of severe dehydration.
Styptic Powder (or cornstarch): To stop minor bleeding from broken nails.
Digital Thermometer Gun: For rapid spot-checking of temperatures during transport or outages.
Exotic Vet Contact Info: Written on the tank or stored in the phone.
Critter Keeper/Tub: For emergency evacuation or deep cleaning isolation.
Battery Backup: For essential life support systems if possible.

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