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The Ultimate Guide to Crested Gecko (Correlophus ciliatus) Care

TL;DR: Crested Gecko Care Essentials

  • Enclosure: Vertical space is critical for these tree-dwelling geckos. An 18"x18"x36" tank is the minimum for one adult.

  • Substrate: Use moisture-holding substrates like coconut fiber, organic topsoil mix, or sphagnum moss to maintain humidity. For babies or quarantine, use paper towels. Avoid reptile carpet and wood chips.

  • Heating: A temperature gradient is essential; "room temperature" is not enough. Use a low-wattage overhead heat source regulated by a thermostat.

    • Basking/Top Area: 82–85°F

    • Cool/Bottom Area: 70–75°F

    • Nighttime: Allow a natural drop to 65–72°F. Temperatures consistently above 85°F can be fatal.

  • UVB Lighting: Highly recommended to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). Use a low-output linear UVB bulb (2-7%, like Arcadia ShadeDweller) on a 10-14 hour daily cycle. Replace the bulb every 6-12 months.

  • Humidity: High humidity is required, but it must be a cycle. Mist heavily to spike humidity to 80%+, then let it dry out to 40-50% before misting again. This prevents mold and respiratory infections.

  • Furnishings: The enclosure must be densely cluttered with branches, vines, and foliage, especially in the upper half. This provides security and crucial horizontal resting spots to help prevent Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS).

  • Diet: The primary food source is a Commercial Crested Gecko Diet (CGD), such as Pangea or Repashy. This is a complete powdered diet you mix with water.

  • Insects: Live insects like crickets and dubia roaches should be fed daily for babies and juveniles, plus they are excellent for enrichment. Offer them 1-2 times per week for adults.  



An Introduction to the Eyelash Gecko, Correlophus ciliatus



Rediscovery and Natural History in New Caledonia

The crested gecko, Correlophus ciliatus, is an arboreal lizard species native exclusively to the islands of New Caledonia, a semi-tropical archipelago situated between Fiji and Australia.1 For many years, this species was believed to be extinct until its remarkable rediscovery in 1994 following a tropical storm.3 Today, it is a thriving species in both its native habitat and in herpetoculture worldwide.

In their natural environment, crested geckos inhabit moist primary forests, spending the majority of their lives above the ground in the branches and foliage of trees.1 Their behavior is classified as crepuscular, meaning they are most active during the low-light periods of dawn and dusk.2 This biological rhythm is a foundational element that dictates their requirements for lighting, heating, and activity periods in a captive environment. The semi-tropical climate of New Caledonia is notably moderate and shares similarities with the ambient conditions of many human homes.1 This has contributed to the species' reputation for being relatively easy to care for. However, this perception can be misleading; while they do not require extreme temperatures, their ectothermic nature necessitates a carefully managed thermal environment to thrive. A common and dangerous husbandry error stems from misinterpreting their tolerance for moderate temperatures as a lack of need for any supplemental heating, a misconception that is a frequent cause of poor health.3

Anatomy, Lifespan, and Temperament

Adult crested geckos typically reach a total length of 6 to 8 inches, with some individuals measuring up to 9 inches.2 Their adult weight generally falls between 35 and 45 grams.3 Anatomically, they possess several distinct features, including prominent crests of skin running from their eyes down their back, which gives them their common name. Unlike many other gecko species, they do not have eyelids.2 A critical characteristic for keepers to understand is their ability to perform caudal autotomy—the voluntary detachment of their tail as a defense mechanism. Once dropped, the tail of a crested gecko will not regenerate, leaving the gecko with a rounded posterior often referred to as a "frog butt".5

With appropriate care, crested geckos have a remarkably long lifespan, averaging 15 to 20 years or more in captivity.2 This longevity represents a significant long-term commitment for any prospective owner. In terms of temperament, they are generally considered docile and can become tolerant of gentle, regular handling.2 However, they are also known for being excellent jumpers, an innate arboreal behavior that requires careful management during interaction.5

Designing the Ideal Arboreal Vivarium



Enclosure Sizing: From Hatchling to Adult

As a primarily arboreal species, the vertical dimension of a crested gecko's enclosure is of greater importance than its horizontal footprint.5 A tall habitat is essential to accommodate their natural climbing and jumping behaviors. Modern husbandry standards have evolved past the previously common recommendation of a 20-gallon tall aquarium. Current expert consensus advises a minimum enclosure size of 18"L x 18"W x 36"H for a single adult gecko weighing over 12 grams.8 Larger enclosures, such as 24"L x 24"W x 48"H, are highly recommended, as a healthy gecko will utilize all available space, leading to better muscle tone and overall physical condition.8

For younger geckos, enclosure size must be scaled appropriately. Housing a small hatchling in an overly large space can cause stress and make it difficult for the animal to locate its food.5 A tiered approach based on weight is the most effective method for ensuring the gecko's security and well-being throughout its development.

Table 1: Enclosure Size Recommendations by Gecko Weight

Gecko Weight (grams)

Minimum Enclosure Dimensions (L"xW"xH")

Recommended Enclosure Dimensions (L"xW"xH")

< 5 g

6-quart tub or similar small enclosure 2

12" x 12" x 12" 2

5-12 g

12" x 12" x 12" 8

12" x 12" x 18" 7

12-20 g

18" x 18" x 24" 2

18" x 18" x 36" 8

>20 g (Adult)

18" x 18" x 36" 8

24" x 24" x 36" or larger 3

Substrate Science: Creating a High-Humidity Foundation

The primary role of the substrate in a crested gecko vivarium is to retain moisture, which is essential for maintaining the high ambient humidity levels required by this semi-tropical species.10 A substrate layer of 2 to 4 inches is recommended to create an effective moisture reservoir.3

Recommended Substrates:

  • DIY Tropical Mix: A blend of 60% organic topsoil and 40% coconut fiber is an effective and economical choice.11
  • Commercial Bioactive Soils: Products such as Zoo Med ReptiSoil or The Tye-Dyed Iguana's Tropical Mix are specifically formulated for tropical, high-humidity environments.11
  • Coconut Fiber and Sphagnum Moss: These materials are excellent at holding moisture and are widely used as additives.5

For hatchlings or during a quarantine period, a simple substrate like paper towels is the safest option. This eliminates the risk of impaction from ingesting loose particles and allows for easy monitoring of the animal's health.5

Substrates to Avoid:

Certain substrates are unsuitable and potentially dangerous. Bark or wood chips pose a significant impaction risk. Substrates derived from pine or cedar contain volatile oils that can cause neurological damage. Reptile carpet, despite being marketed for reptiles, can snag a gecko's toes and claws, leading to injury.11

For naturalistic setups, incorporating a drainage layer of a material like Zoo Med Hydroballs beneath the substrate is considered best practice. This layer prevents the soil from becoming waterlogged, which can lead to anaerobic conditions and root rot in live plants.11

Enrichment and Security: Furnishing the Vertical Space

A properly furnished vivarium is not merely an aesthetic choice; it is a critical component of preventative healthcare. The environment must be densely cluttered with a variety of climbing structures and foliage, particularly in the upper two-thirds of the enclosure where crested geckos spend most of their time.13 This complex, three-dimensional space provides security, encourages natural behaviors, and is crucial for preventing certain health conditions.

A sparsely decorated, empty vertical tank forces the gecko to rest and sleep in unnatural positions, such as clinging vertically or upside-down to the glass walls. This chronic posture is the primary cause of Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS), a condition where the tail's weight causes a permanent deformity at the base of the spine and hips.14 By providing ample horizontal branches, vines, and broad leaves, the keeper offers natural, properly oriented resting places. This directly mitigates the main behavioral cause of FTS, elevating the act of "decorating" to an essential medical precaution.

Essential Furnishings:

  • Branches and Vines: A network of branches, such as manzanita, cork bark, or bamboo, should be arranged at various angles—horizontal, diagonal, and vertical—to create a complex climbing structure.2 Flexible, bendable vines can be used to connect different areas of the enclosure.
  • Foliage: Dense plant cover, whether from live or artificial plants, is non-negotiable. It provides crucial hiding spots, creates visual barriers that reduce stress, and offers surfaces where water droplets can collect for the gecko to drink.2
  • Elevated Hides: In addition to ground-level cover, provide secure, elevated hiding places like hanging coconut hides or cork hollows. These allow the gecko to retreat to a safe space off the ground, mimicking their natural behavior.2

Mastering Environmental Parameters



The Thermal Gradient: The Importance of Overhead Heating

As ectothermic animals, crested geckos cannot generate their own body heat and are entirely dependent on their environment to regulate their internal temperature. This physiological reality makes the provision of a proper thermal gradient—a range of temperatures from warm to cool—an absolute necessity for their health.2 A static "room temperature" environment is insufficient, as it prevents the gecko from performing essential behaviors like basking to aid digestion and metabolism. The lack of a proper heat source is one of the most common causes of lethargy, poor appetite, and illness in captive crested geckos.3

Ideal Temperature Gradient:

  • Basking Area (Top of Enclosure): 82−85°F (28−29°C) 2
  • Cool Area (Bottom of Enclosure): 70−75°F (21−24°C) 2
  • Nighttime Temperature: A natural drop to 65−72°F (18−22°C) is beneficial.2

It is critically important to prevent temperatures from exceeding 85°F (29°C), as crested geckos are sensitive to heat, and prolonged exposure to higher temperatures can be stressful and potentially fatal.4

The most effective way to establish this vertical gradient is with a low-wattage overhead heat source, such as a heat lamp with a low-wattage flood bulb or a ceramic heat emitter. All heating elements must be connected to a thermostat to ensure precise temperature control and prevent overheating.5

Illuminating the Subject: The Essential Role of UVB and Full-Spectrum Lighting

Outdated husbandry information often claimed that crepuscular or nocturnal species do not require UVB lighting.4 However, modern herpetological science has established that providing low levels of UVB radiation is highly beneficial for crested geckos and is now considered a standard of high-quality care.3

UVB light enables the gecko to synthesize vitamin D3 in its skin. This vitamin is essential for the metabolism of calcium, a process critical for bone health and the prevention of Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD).18 Furthermore, providing a proper light cycle with UVB has been shown to improve activity levels, stimulate appetite, and contribute to the animal's overall psychological well-being.3

For a crepuscular species that spends much of the day in partial cover, a low-intensity UVB source is appropriate. A linear T5 or T8 fluorescent tube with a 2-7% UVB output, such as the Arcadia ShadeDweller, is an ideal choice.3 The light should be on a timer to provide a consistent photoperiod, mimicking the natural change of seasons with approximately 14 hours of light in the summer and 10-12 hours in the winter.3

The Humidity Cycle: Misting, Ventilation, and Monitoring

Crested geckos require a high-humidity environment, with ideal ambient levels ranging from 60% to 80%.3 However, it is crucial to understand that this does not mean the enclosure should be constantly wet. A successful humidity strategy involves creating a cycle of high humidity followed by a drying-out period. The enclosure should be misted heavily, causing humidity to spike to 80% or higher, and then allowed to gradually dry to around 40-50% before the next misting.3 This cycle prevents the growth of mold, mildew, and harmful bacteria, which thrive in perpetually damp conditions.3

Misting should occur at least once daily, typically in the evening as the geckos become active. A second, lighter misting in the morning may be necessary depending on the enclosure's ventilation and the ambient humidity of the room.3 This daily misting serves a dual purpose: it not only manages ambient humidity but also provides the primary source of drinking water for the geckos, who prefer to lick droplets from leaves and other surfaces.3 Accurate monitoring of this cycle is not possible without a reliable digital hygrometer.7

The core environmental parameters of heating, lighting, and humidity should be viewed as a single, interconnected system rather than as independent variables. A failure in one area can cascade and compromise the others. For example, without adequate UVB lighting, a gecko cannot properly synthesize vitamin D3 to absorb calcium from its diet, leading to MBD regardless of how well it is fed.18 Similarly, if the enclosure is too cool, the gecko's metabolism will slow, impairing its ability to digest food and absorb nutrients.3 If humidity is too low, the gecko will become dehydrated and suffer from shedding complications (dysecdysis).23 Therefore, a keeper cannot compensate for a deficiency in one parameter by excelling in another; successful husbandry requires the simultaneous and correct management of all three.

Table 2: Environmental Parameter Summary

Parameter

Ideal Range

Recommended Equipment

Key Considerations

Basking Temperature

82−85°F (28−29°C)

Low-wattage halogen bulb or ceramic heat emitter with a thermostat 3

Must be at the top of the enclosure; temperatures above 85°F can be fatal.6

Cool-Side Ambient

70−75°F (21−24°C)

N/A (achieved via gradient)

Must provide a cooler zone at the bottom for thermoregulation.2

Nighttime Temperature

65−72°F (18−22°C)

Usually none needed; low-wattage CHE if room drops below 65°F 3

A natural temperature drop is healthy and beneficial.3

Humidity

Spike to 80%+ then dry to 40-50%

Hand mister, pressure sprayer, or automatic misting system 3

A drying-out period is essential to prevent mold and bacterial growth.3

UVB Index (UVI)

Ferguson Zone 1 (UVI 0.5-1.5)

Linear T5/T8, 2-7% UVB (e.g., Arcadia ShadeDweller) 3

Bulb must be replaced every 6-12 months as per manufacturer guidelines.12

Photoperiod

10-14 hours, seasonally

Automatic timer 3

Mimics natural seasonal cycles, regulating behavior and appetite.3

A Comprehensive Guide to Crested Gecko Nutrition



The Foundation: Understanding Commercial Crested Gecko Diets (CGD)

The single most significant advancement in crested gecko husbandry has been the development of nutritionally complete commercial powdered diets, commonly known as CGD.3 As omnivores that consume both fruit and insects in the wild, their dietary needs are complex.2 Historically, keepers attempted to replicate this with a mixture of fruit baby foods and insects, a practice now understood to be nutritionally deficient and a leading cause of Metabolic Bone Disease.5

Modern, high-quality CGD from brands like Pangea and Repashy are scientifically formulated to provide a balanced ratio of proteins, fats, vitamins, and minerals, including calcium and vitamin D3.4 These diets have effectively solved the complex nutritional puzzle for keepers, removing the primary vector for husbandry failure and making long-term health achievable for novices. CGD should be considered the staple and foundation of any captive crested gecko's diet.

The Hunt: The Role and Selection of Feeder Insects

While a complete CGD can sustain a crested gecko, the inclusion of live feeder insects is highly recommended. Offering insects provides crucial behavioral enrichment by stimulating natural hunting instincts, encourages exercise, and offers a valuable supplemental source of protein and other nutrients.3

Suitable Feeder Insects:

  • Dubia Roaches
  • Crickets
  • Black Soldier Fly Larvae (BSFL)
  • Silkworms
  • Small Hornworms 3

Insects to Limit or Avoid:

  • Treats: High-fat insects like waxworms should be offered very sparingly, no more than once a month, as they can lead to obesity.5
  • Use with Caution: Mealworms and superworms contain a high amount of chitin (the hard exoskeleton), which can be difficult for some geckos to digest and may pose an impaction risk, particularly for juveniles.29

All feeder insects must be "gut-loaded" for at least 24-48 hours prior to being offered to the gecko. This process involves feeding the insects a highly nutritious diet to maximize the nutritional value passed on to the gecko.28

A Schedule for Life: Feeding and Supplementation from Juvenile to Adult

Feeding frequency varies with the age and metabolic rate of the gecko. Juveniles require more frequent feedings to support their rapid growth, while adults require less to maintain a healthy weight.

Feeding Schedule:

  • Juveniles (0-12 months): Offer fresh CGD daily. Offer appropriately sized, gut-loaded insects daily.2
  • Adults (>12 months): Offer fresh CGD every 2 days (or 3-5 times per week). Offer insects 1-2 times per week as enrichment.2

Regarding supplementation, if a high-quality complete CGD is used as the staple and appropriate low-level UVB lighting is provided, additional dusting of feeder insects is generally not necessary. The CGD is already fortified, and the UVB allows the gecko to produce its own vitamin D3. However, a very light dusting of insects with a pure calcium powder (without D3) can be done for added security, especially for breeding females.7

Table 3: Sample Feeding Schedule

Day of the Week

Juvenile (0-12 months)

Adult (>12 months)

Monday

 Offer fresh CGD and insects

Offer fresh CGD

Tuesday

 Offer fresh CGD and insects

Rest Day

Wednesday

 Offer fresh CGD and insects

Offer fresh CGD

Thursday

 Offer fresh CGD and insects

Rest Day

Friday

 Offer fresh CGD and insects

Offer fresh CGD and insects

Saturday

Offer fresh CGD and insects

Rest Day

Sunday

Offer fresh CGD and insects

Offer fresh CGD and insects

Note: Fresh CGD should be mixed and offered in the evening and removed after 24 hours. Insects should be offered as a separate meal.

Behavior, Taming, and Handling



Building Trust: A Step-by-Step Taming Process

Successfully taming a crested gecko is a process built on patience and establishing trust. A new gecko will be stressed from the change in environment, so a mandatory two-week "settling-in" period with no handling is essential for acclimation.2 During this time, the keeper's presence during routine maintenance like misting and feeding will begin to associate them with non-threatening activities.

After the initial two weeks, the taming process can begin. The first step is to simply rest a hand inside the enclosure for a few minutes each evening. This allows the gecko to become accustomed to your scent and presence without being forced into an interaction.31 Once the gecko shows curiosity or indifference rather than fear, you can proceed to gentle handling. Initial sessions should be very short, lasting no more than five minutes, and conducted every other day to avoid overwhelming the animal.2 As the gecko remains calm during these short interactions, the duration can be gradually increased.

The Art of Handling: Managing a Jumpy Gecko

A crested gecko's instinctual response to being handled is often to jump. For a new owner, this can be startling and may be misinterpreted as a sign of aggression or a desire to escape. However, this behavior is a deeply ingrained survival instinct rooted in their arboreal nature. In the wild, a leap from a high branch is a "leap of faith," with the expectation that another branch or vine will be there to catch them.32 Understanding this reframes the behavior from a rejection of the handler to a natural mode of travel.

Successful handling involves working with this instinct rather than against it. The key technique is known as "treadmilling." As the gecko prepares to jump from one hand, the handler simply places their other hand a few inches in front of it, providing the "next branch" for it to land on. By repeating this motion, the handler allows the gecko to move in a controlled manner until it calms down.32 This approach builds confidence in both the gecko and the handler, transforming a potentially stressful interaction into a manageable one.

Proper Handling Technique:

  • Approach from the side or below, never from above, as this mimics a predator's attack.2
  • Gently scoop the gecko onto your hand rather than grabbing it.2
  • Support the entire body, including the feet and the base of the tail.33
  • Never grab or apply pressure to the tail, as this can cause it to be dropped.5
  • Always handle over a soft surface, like a bed or couch, and low to the ground to prevent injury from an unexpected leap.31

Decoding Gecko Behavior: From "Firing Up" to Tail Loss

Crested geckos communicate through a variety of visual cues and behaviors. Understanding these signals is key to assessing their health and mood.

  • "Firing Up" and "Firing Down": This refers to a dramatic change in skin color and pattern intensity. When "fired up," a gecko's colors become darker, richer, and more vibrant. This can be triggered by a range of stimuli, including increased humidity, activity at night, excitement, or stress.34 When "fired down," typically during sleep or periods of relaxation, their colors become much paler and more muted.34 This is a normal physiological process and serves as a useful, albeit general, indicator of the gecko's current state. Occasionally, a gecko may "misfire," where only parts of its body change color, often due to being partially covered while sleeping.38
  • Tail Autotomy (Tail Loss): As a defense mechanism, a crested gecko can voluntarily detach its tail when it feels threatened or is grabbed by it. The detached tail will continue to wiggle, distracting a potential predator.5 While startling for the owner, this is not a medical emergency. The wound at the base of the tail closes almost instantly, and no special care or ointment is required.6 Unlike some other lizard species, crested geckos do not regenerate their tails.5

Proactive Health and Wellness

The most common health problems encountered in captive crested geckos are almost exclusively the result of improper husbandry. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS), and dysecdysis (shedding problems) form a triad of conditions that, while distinct, are often interconnected symptoms stemming from systemic failures in care. The appearance of one of these issues should prompt a comprehensive review of all husbandry parameters, as a deficiency in one area strongly suggests potential deficiencies in others.

Preventing Common Ailments: MBD, FTS, and Dehydration

  • Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): This is a severe condition caused by a disruption in calcium metabolism, typically from a diet deficient in calcium or a lack of vitamin D3 for its absorption.20 Symptoms include a soft or deformed jaw, visibly curved or bent limbs, a wavy or kinked spine, lethargy, and muscle tremors.40 Prevention is achieved through a combination of a complete CGD and the provision of low-level UVB lighting. While the progression of MBD can be halted with corrected husbandry, the skeletal deformities it causes are permanent and irreversible.20
  • Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS): As previously discussed, FTS is a physical deformity of the hips and spine where the tail flops limply over the gecko's back or to the side when it hangs vertically.14 It is primarily caused by the chronic unnatural posture of sleeping upside down or vertically on enclosure walls, a behavior common in sparsely furnished tanks.14 A potential link to underlying MBD may also exist, as weakened bones could exacerbate the condition.14 Prevention is entirely dependent on providing a richly cluttered environment with abundant horizontal perches and foliage for proper resting.15 In severe cases that impair mobility or egg-laying, a veterinarian may recommend tail amputation.15
  • Dehydration: Chronic dehydration is a common issue resulting from insufficient humidity or infrequent misting. Signs include wrinkled or loose-fitting skin, sunken eyes, and lethargy.23 Treatment involves increasing the frequency and intensity of misting, providing a "sauna" (see below), and ensuring the gecko has access to water droplets to lick.23

Understanding the Shedding Process (Ecdysis) and Its Complications (Dysecdysis)

Ecdysis, or shedding, is a natural process where the gecko sheds its old layer of skin to accommodate growth. Prior to a shed, the gecko's skin will appear dull and grayish.24 During this time, it is crucial to ensure humidity levels are high (spiking to 80-100%) to facilitate a clean shed.24 The gecko will typically eat its shed skin to reabsorb nutrients.24

Dysecdysis, or "stuck shed," occurs when pieces of the old skin fail to come off, most commonly around the toes and the tip of the tail. This is almost always caused by inadequate humidity.6 If left untreated, the retained skin will dry and constrict, cutting off circulation and leading to the loss of toes or the tail tip.

The primary treatment for dysecdysis is to provide a "sauna." This involves placing the gecko in a small, ventilated container (like a deli cup with air holes) with a lukewarm, damp paper towel for 15-20 minutes. The high humidity in the container will soften the retained skin, which can then often be gently removed with a cotton swab.6

Recognizing the Signs of a Healthy vs. Unhealthy Gecko

Regular observation is a keeper's most powerful tool for monitoring health. A healthy crested gecko should exhibit the following signs:

  • Clear, bright eyes
  • Straight spine and limbs with no swelling
  • Alert and responsive behavior
  • Regular feeding and defecation
  • Smooth, free movement and climbing ability
  • Breathing with its mouth closed 2

Table 4: Troubleshooting Common Health Issues

Symptom/Observation

Potential Issue

Recommended Action

Wrinkled skin, sunken eyes

Dehydration

Increase misting frequency. Provide a "sauna." Ensure water droplets are available. See vet if no improvement in 48 hours.23

Curved limbs, wavy tail, soft jaw

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)

Immediate vet consultation. Verify use of complete CGD and proper UVB lighting. Deformities are permanent.20

Tail flops over back when upside down

Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS)

Add more horizontal climbing branches and foliage to the enclosure. Consult a vet if mobility is impaired.15

Pieces of old skin stuck on toes/tail

Dysecdysis (Stuck Shed)

Provide a "sauna" for 15-20 mins. Gently try to remove skin with a cotton swab. Do not pull. Increase enclosure humidity.24

Not eating, weight loss

Various (Stress, Illness, Impaction, Low Temps)

Verify all environmental parameters are correct. Ensure food is fresh. If it persists for more than a week, consult a vet.3

Lethargy, reluctance to move

Various (Low Temps, MBD, Dehydration)

Immediately verify temperature gradient with a temp gun. Check for other symptoms. Consult a vet if behavior is abnormal.3

An Overview of Crested Gecko Morphs and Traits

The term "morph" in the reptile hobby can be confusing. It is important to distinguish between true genetic mutations and selectively bred aesthetic traits. True genetic morphs, like Axanthic or Lilly White, are caused by specific gene mutations that follow predictable inheritance patterns. In contrast, most of the variety seen in crested geckos comes from polygenic traits—characteristics like color and pattern that are influenced by multiple genes and have been refined over generations of selective breeding.44

A Visual Guide to Common Patterns and Colors

Below is a brief overview of some of the most common selectively bred traits found in crested geckos:

  • Base Patterns:
  • Patternless/Bicolor: Geckos with a solid base color, where Bicolors have a slightly different shade on their dorsal (back) area.44
  • Flame: Features a contrasting color on the dorsal area with little to no pattern on the sides.44
  • Harlequin/Extreme Harlequin: Similar to a Flame, but with significant patterning on the sides and limbs. "Extreme" denotes a very high amount of this lateral pattern.44
  • Tiger/Brindle: Displays dark, vertical stripes or broken "brindled" markings over the base color.44
  • Color-Based Traits:
  • Halloween: A specific combination of dark black or brown base color with vibrant orange patterning.44
  • Creamsicle: A combination of orange or yellow base color with cream or white patterning.44
  • Marking and Structural Traits:
  • Dalmatian/Super Dalmatian: Exhibits black, red, or green spots. "Super Dalmatians" are those with a very high density of spots (often defined as 100+).44
  • Pinstripe: Refers to the raised scales that run along the two outer edges of the dorsal area, often in a contrasting cream or white color. A "Quad-stripe" also has stripes along its lower sides.44
  • Genetic Morphs:
  • Lilly White: An incomplete dominant gene that results in high-white coloration.45
  • Axanthic: A recessive gene that eliminates yellow and red pigments, resulting in a grayscale gecko.45
  • Cappuccino: An incomplete dominant gene resulting in brown coloration and unique features.45

A New Owner's Toolkit



The Complete Shopping Checklist

This checklist compiles the necessary equipment for establishing a proper crested gecko habitat. All items should be acquired and set up before bringing the animal home.

  • Enclosure:
  • Appropriately sized vertical glass terrarium with front-opening doors (e.g., 18"x18"x36" for an adult) 8
  • Heating and Lighting:
  • Low-wattage halogen heat bulb or ceramic heat emitter 5
  • Dome lamp fixture 10
  • Dimming thermostat or on/off thermostat for CHE 3
  • Low-intensity (2-7%) linear UVB T5/T8 fixture and bulb (e.g., Arcadia ShadeDweller) 3
  • Automatic timer or smart plugs for lighting cycle 3
  • Monitoring:
  • Digital thermometer/hygrometer with a probe 7
  • Infrared temperature gun 3
  • Substrate and Furnishings:
  • Moisture-retentive substrate (e.g., coco fiber, organic topsoil) or paper towels for quarantine 10
  • Climbing branches (cork bark, manzanita, bamboo) 2
  • Flexible vines 2
  • Dense foliage (live non-toxic plants or artificial plants) 10
  • Elevated hides (e.g., coconut hide, cork hollows) 2
  • Elevated feeding ledge 13
  • Feeding and Hydration:
  • Commercial Crested Gecko Diet (CGD) from a reputable brand (Pangea, Repashy) 3
  • Small feeding cups (0.5 oz) 27
  • Calcium supplement (without D3 if using UVB) 10
  • Appropriate live feeder insects (e.g., crickets, dubia roaches) 3
  • Feeder insect enclosure and gut-load diet 12
  • Mister or pressure sprayer for humidity 10
  • Maintenance and Health:
  • Reptile-safe disinfectant 3
  • Digital gram scale for weight monitoring 3

Avoiding Common Husbandry Mistakes

A summary of critical errors to avoid, reinforcing the principles outlined in this guide:

  • Enclosure: Do not use an enclosure that is too small or horizontally oriented. Do not house multiple crested geckos together, especially males, as it leads to stress and injury.3
  • Environment: Do not assume "room temperature" is sufficient; always provide a thermal gradient with a regulated overhead heat source. Do not use colored (red or blue) bulbs for nighttime viewing, as they disrupt the gecko's day/night cycle. Do not maintain a constantly wet environment; allow for a drying-out period between mistings to prevent disease.3
  • Diet: Do not feed a diet of baby food; use a complete CGD as the staple. Do not overfeed high-fat insects like waxworms. Do not offer feeder insects that have not been properly gut-loaded.5
  • Handling: Do not handle a new gecko for the first two weeks. Never grab a gecko by its tail. Avoid handling sessions that cause visible stress (e.g., heavy breathing, frantic jumping).3
  • Health: Do not ignore signs of illness like weight loss, lethargy, or stuck shed. Do not assume a "chubby" gecko is healthy; obesity is a serious health concern that shortens lifespan.47

Works cited

  1. Crested Gecko, Correlophus ciliatus – Leap Habitats, accessed October 14, 2025, https://leaphabitats.com/blogs/animal-care/crested-gecko-correlophus-ciliatus
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