A Biological and Husbandry Guide to Tarantula Keeping for the Novice Arachnologist

TL;DR: The Absolute Essentials for Beginners

Hey, I get it. 2,000 words is a lot. If you're standing in a pet store right now and need the bare-bones basics, here they are.

Your #1 Job: Don't Drop It

Your main fear is a bite. Your tarantula's main fear is gravity. These creatures are unbelievably fragile. Their abdomen is like a water balloon in an eggshell. A fall from even a few feet is almost always fatal. Your primary job is to protect the spider from a fall.

The Golden Rule: Choose "New World"

All beginner-friendly tarantulas come from "New World" (the Americas). Their main defense is kicking itchy, irritating hairs. "Old World" tarantulas (from Africa/Asia) have no itchy hairs. Their main defense is blinding speed and medically significant, agonizing venom. As a beginner, you must choose a New World species. Choose the itch, not the agony.

The Habitat: Simple and Safe

A 5- or 10-gallon tank is fine for most adults. The most important feature? Deep substrate (coconut fiber, peat moss). This gives them a cushion if they fall. Baby tarantulas (slings) must be kept in tiny containers, like a deli cup with pin-prick air holes, otherwise they can't find their food (and their food might find them).

The Environment: Stop Worrying

If you're comfortable in your house, they are too (70-80°F). You do not need heat lamps; they will kill your spider. Do not obsess over humidity percentages; you will drive yourself crazy. The only thing you need is a full, shallow water dish and good ventilation. That's it.

Feeding: Protect Your Pet From Its Food

Feed adults 1-2 crickets once a week. Feed slings (babies) 2-3 times a week. The most important rule: If the tarantula doesn't eat a live prey item, you must remove it within 24 hours. A live cricket can (and will) nibble on and kill your vulnerable spider, especially if it's molting.

The Molt: On Its Back is NOT Dead

To grow, your tarantula will stop eating, get sluggish, and then flip over on its back. IT IS NOT DEAD. This is the normal molting position. Do not touch it, poke it, or "help" it. Disturbing a molt is a death sentence. Leave it alone.

Buying: Get Captive-Bred

Do not buy a "Wild-Caught" (WC) tarantula from a chain pet store. They are often unhealthy, full of parasites, and stressed. Buy a from a reputable online breeder or a local reptile store. This is the #1 way to guarantee a healthy, well-adjusted pet.

I. Introduction: Demystifying the Tarantula as a Pet

For the absolute beginner, the word "tarantula" often evokes imagery of a dangerous, aggressive, and venomous monster. This cultural perception is, from a scientific and husbandry perspective, the single greatest myth to overcome. The reality is that the species appropriate for beginners are among the easiest, quietest, and least expensive exotic pets to maintain.1

The first step in responsible tarantula keeping is to conduct a "great swap" of perceived risks. The primary fear for a novice—a dangerous bite—is statistically and medically the lowest risk. Most beginner-level pet tarantulas are unlikely to bite.1 Even if a bite did occur, their venom is not considered dangerous to humans, unless a specific, rare sensitivity exists.1

The tarantula is best understood not as a "pet" in the traditional sense, but as a living, eight-legged display animal. They are reclusive, have no odor, and do not require supplemental heat lamps or lighting.1 In fact, excessive handling is a significant source of stress for the spider.1

This leads to the true risk, which is the one beginners fail to perceive: tarantulas are extraordinarily fragile. The greatest threat to a tarantula's life is not a predator; it is gravity. Their abdomen (opisthosoma) is soft and-egg-shell like.2 A fall from even a short distance—such as from a standing person's hand—is frequently fatal. Such a fall can cause the abdomen to rupture, leading to a catastrophic and irreversible loss of hemolymph (the invertebrate equivalent of blood).2

Therefore, the mindset of a successful keeper must be inverted. The goal is not to protect the human from the tarantula; the goal is to protect the tarantula from the human and the fundamental danger of a fall.

II. The First and Most Critical Decision: New World vs. Old World

The single most important decision a beginner will make, directly impacting their safety and success, occurs before the animal is even selected. The tarantula kingdom (family Theraphosidae) is split into two major evolutionary groups based on their geographic origin: "New World" and "Old World." This choice is a non-negotiable prerequisite for a novice keeper.

New World (NW) Tarantulas: These species originate in the Americas (North, Central, and South).
Old World (OW) Tarantulas: These species hail from Africa, Asia, Europe, and Australia.

This geographical divide has led to the evolution of two vastly different primary defense mechanisms.

The Great Defense Mechanism Divergence

New World (The Beginner's Choice): The primary defense of New World tarantulas is their urticating hairs.3 These are not true hairs, but microscopic, barbed bristles (setae) located on the spider's abdomen. When threatened, the tarantula will rapidly rub its back legs against its abdomen, "kicking" a cloud of these barbed hairs into the air toward the perceived threat. These setae are designed to embed in the skin and mucous membranes of predators, causing significant itching, irritation, and inflammation. Tarantulas also use these hairs defensively, weaving them into their burrow entrances and egg sacs as a deterrent.
Old World (The Expert's Choice): Old World tarantulas lack urticating hairs entirely. As such, their evolutionary strategy for defense relies on two things:

Speed: They are among the fastest spider species on the planet.3
Aggression and Venom Potency: Lacking a passive deterrent, their first line of defense is often a defensive, aggressive posture and a willingness to bite.3 Their venom is significantly more potent than their New World counterparts. While not considered fatal, a bite from an Old World species is anecdotally described by experts as agonizing, potentially causing "serious pain, muscle spasms, lightheadedness, and cramps".3 As one expert joked, a bite "will make you wish that you were dead".

The Verdict for a Beginner

The choice is absolute. A novice keeper must select a New World species. This is not a matter of preference but of risk management. All beginners will, at some point, make a mistake and startle their animal.

The consequence of startling a New World tarantula is irritation—the keeper must wash their itchy hands.
The consequence of startling an Old World tarantula is a medical event—the keeper may experience debilitating pain and require medical supervision.

A beginner must "choose the itch" and leave Old World species to experienced, expert keepers.

III. Recommended Species for the Absolute Beginner

The following species are all New World tarantulas renowned for their docile temperaments, hardiness, and ease of care, making them the consensus top choices for novices.

The "Classics" (Terrestrial)

Tliltocatl albopilosus (Honduran Curly Hair): Often cited as an ideal first tarantula, this species is known for its calm nature, hardiness, and being a reliable eater.
Brachypelma hamorii (Mexican Red-Knee): This is the "poster child" of tarantulas, famous for its striking black and orange coloration. They are typically very calm, though perhaps more inclined to kick urticating hairs than other beginner species.

The "Pet Rocks" (Terrestrial)

This group is known for being extremely docile and slow-moving, but some species can present a unique psychological challenge for new owners.

Grammostola pulchra (Brazilian Black): A highly sought-after species with a stunning, velvety black appearance. They are known for being "super chill" and exceptionally calm, but they are also slow-growing and can be more expensive.
Grammostola rosea / porteri (Chilean Rose Hair): For decades, this was the most common beginner tarantula. It is exceptionally hardy, tolerant of beginner mistakes, and very affordable. However, this hardiness comes with a caveat: this species is infamous for spontaneous, long-term fasting, sometimes refusing food for months on end.4 While this is biologically normal for the spider, it can be "quite disconcerting" and extremely stressful for a new keeper who assumes their pet is sick or dying.
Grammostola pulchripes (Chaco Golden Knee): A large, attractive, and generally non-aggressive species that is known for its hardiness.

The Arboreal (Tree-Dwelling) Option

Caribena versicolor (Antilles Pinktoe): For beginners who are set on an arboreal (tree-dwelling) species, this is a popular choice. They are known for their vibrant blue coloration as slings, which changes to a rich, multi-colored metallic sheen as adults. They require a taller enclosure with climbing structures.

Table 1: Beginner-Friendly Species Comparison

Scientific Name	Common Name	Type	Max Size (Leg Span)	Temperament	Key Considerations
Tliltocatl albopilosus	Honduran Curly Hair	Terrestrial	~6 inches	Very Docile, Calm	Hardy, good eater.
Brachypelma hamorii	Mexican Red-Knee	Terrestrial	~6 inches	Docile, Calm	The "classic" pet tarantula. Prone to kicking hairs.
Grammostola pulchra	Brazilian Black	Terrestrial	~6-7 inches	Very Docile, Calm	Slow-growing, can be expensive. A "pet rock".
Grammostola porteri	Chilean Rose Hair	Terrestrial	~5-6 inches	Docile, but can be "moody"	Extremely hardy. Infamous for long, random fasts.
Grammostola pulchripes	Chaco Golden Knee	Terrestrial	~7-8 inches	Docile, Calm	A large, hardy, and non-aggressive species.
Caribena versicolor	Antilles Pinktoe	Arboreal	~4.5-5.5 inches	Docile, but Skittish (fast)	Requires a tall enclosure with good ventilation.

IV. Husbandry, Part 1: Building the Habitat for All Life Stages

A common misconception is that tarantulas, like mammals, require large, spacious living areas. The opposite is true; tarantulas are "happy in small spaces".5 For many adult terrestrial species, a 5- or 10-gallon aquarium is more than sufficient.6

Enclosure Types and Security

Enclosures can be simple glass tanks or plastic containers.7 The orientation depends on the species:

Terrestrial (Ground-dwelling) species require an enclosure that is wider than it is tall.5
Arboreal (Tree-dwelling) species require an enclosure that is taller than it is wide, to allow for climbing.5

Regardless of type, the lid must be secure. Tarantulas are surprisingly strong and are skilled escape artists.5

Critical Sub-Section: Housing by Life Stage

A tarantula will be "rehoused" into progressively larger containers throughout its life. It is a fatal beginner mistake to place a baby tarantula (a "sling") into its adult enclosure.

1. The "Sling" (Spiderling): A sling must be kept in a very small container. Appropriate enclosures include 2-ounce plastic soufflé cups, 16-ounce deli cups, plastic spice jars, or "dram" bottles.8 These must have tiny, "pin-prick" ventilation holes drilled into them.8 This small size is not a "habitat" in the traditional sense; it is a controlled feeding arena. A tiny sling in a 10-gallon tank will be unable to find its food, and the keeper will be unable to monitor it. Worse, a live cricket (a common food item) left in a large tank can hide, die, and grow mold, or, more horrifyingly, attack and eat the small, vulnerable sling, especially during a molt. The tiny enclosure forces the sling and its prey to interact, allowing the keeper to confirm a successful feed and remove the prey if it is not eaten.
2. The "Juvenile": As the sling grows, it will be moved to a slightly larger enclosure, such as a large deli cup, an AMAC box, or a small "Kritter Keeper". A good rule of thumb is an enclosure that is 2-3 times the tarantula's leg span in width.
3. The "Adult": This is the tarantula's "forever home," such as a 5-10 gallon tank or a specialized acrylic enclosure.6

Substrate and "Furniture"

Substrate: The "floor" of the enclosure should be a material that can hold some moisture, such as coconut fiber, peat moss, or potting soil.5
Substrate Depth: This is a critical safety feature. The substrate must be deep, at least 1.5 times the tarantula's body length. This serves two purposes: it allows the tarantula to burrow 6, and it cushions a potential fall, which can be life-saving.2 For terrestrial species, the distance from the top of the substrate to the lid should be minimized to prevent climbing and falling.
Hide: A tarantula requires a sense of security. A "hide" (such as a piece of cork bark or a hollow log) is essential.5
Water Dish: A shallow water dish is also essential. For slings and juveniles, a simple plastic bottle cap is perfect.7

V. Husbandry, Part 2: Mastering the Environment (Heat, Light, Humidity)

Beginners often "kill their pets with kindness" by obsessing over environmental controls that are unnecessary or even dangerous. The tarantula's environment is remarkably simple.

Heating: If the keeper is comfortable in their home, the tarantula will be comfortable. A stable room temperature between 70-80°F (21-29°C) is perfect.5 Do not use heat lamps, as they can quickly overheat and kill the animal.1 Do not place the tank in a sunny window, which can also be fatal.5 Any temperatures above 80°F can lead to death.
Lighting: None is required. Tarantulas are reclusive and do not need UVB or any special light source.1

The Great Humidity Myth

This is the number one source of stress for new keepers. Many care sheets list specific humidity percentages, such as "75-85%". This causes beginners to buy cheap, inaccurate hygrometers and "chase the number," often by misting the enclosure or sealing off ventilation with plastic wrap.

This practice is deadly. An "overly moist, stuffy, dank enclosure" is a "death trap".9 It promotes the growth of mold and bacteria, which can infect and kill the tarantula.

The goal is not "high humidity"; the goal is hydration and ventilation. A tarantula is perfectly capable of managing its own hydration if given the proper tools.

Hydration: Provide a small, shallow water dish and keep it full at all times.9 The tarantula will drink when it needs to, and the evaporation from this dish will provide all the necessary ambient humidity.9
Ventilation: The enclosure must have good airflow. Stagnant air is the enemy.9 Ideally, the enclosure should have "cross-ventilation" (ventilation holes on the sides of the enclosure, not just the top).7
Moisture: For species that require more moisture, do not mist the air. Instead, pour a small amount of water into one corner of the substrate, allowing it to soak in.9 This creates a moisture gradient, allowing the tarantula to choose a dry or damp area as it pleases.

A keeper's attempt to create a high-humidity box is what kills the animal. A keeper's provision of a water dish and good airflow is what allows it to thrive.

VI. Husbandry, Part 3: A Practical Feeding Regimen

Feeding a tarantula is simple, but it is governed by strict rules designed to protect the spider from its food.

What to Feed: Tarantulas are insectivores.7 Staple foods include live crickets, mealworms, or Dubia roaches.1
Prey Size: This is a critical rule. The prey item should be no larger than the tarantula's abdomen.7 Food that is too large can intimidate, stress, or even injure the tarantula.10

When to Feed (Schedule by Life Stage)

Slings: Slings are voracious and grow quickly. They should be fed 3-4 times per week.4 This "power feeding" helps them grow out of their most fragile life stage.
Juveniles: As their growth slows, the feeding schedule is reduced to approximately twice per week.4
Adults: An adult tarantula has a slow metabolism and should only be fed about once per week.1

The Most Important Rule: Remove Uneaten Prey

If a tarantula does not eat a live prey item, it must be removed from the enclosure within 24 hours.10 This is the single most important safety rule in feeding.

The reasoning is simple: a tarantula can survive for weeks, months, or in some experiments, up to two years without food. It cannot, however, survive a cricket attack. A live cricket or mealworm left in the enclosure is a "major risk".10 It can, and will, nibble on or even kill and eat a tarantula, especially if the tarantula is in the extremely vulnerable process of molting.

This inverts the beginner's priority. The most important feeding job is not providing food, but protecting the tarantula from its food.

Understanding Fasting

It is perfectly normal for a tarantula to stop eating.10 This is not a sign of illness, but rather the #1 sign of an impending molt. It can also be a reaction to stress 10 or simply a species quirk (as with the G. rosea).4 Do not panic if a tarantula refuses food.

VII. The Molting Process: A Guide to Ecdysis

Molting (ecdysis) is the process by which a tarantula sheds its old exoskeleton in order to grow. It is the most fascinating and nerve-wracking event for a new keeper. Slings molt frequently (every 1-3 months), while adults may only molt once a year or less. The entire process is a perfect example of why a keeper's only job is to be a passive guardian.

The Telltale Signs of "Pre-Molt"

The tarantula will give clear signals that it is preparing to molt:

Fasting: The tarantula will stop eating. This is the most common and obvious sign.11
Physical Changes: The abdomen will become very plump, shiny, and the colors will darken.11 If the tarantula has a "bald spot" from kicking hairs, this spot will become dark and almost mirror-like.
Behavioral Changes: The spider will become slow, sluggish, and lethargic.11 It may hide in its burrow and seal the entrance with webbing.
The "Molt Mat": As the molt becomes imminent (within a day or so), the tarantula will spin a thick, hammock-like "mat" of webbing to lie on.11

The Molt: "The Flip"

To molt, the tarantula will flip over and lie on its back.11

CRITICAL WARNING: IT IS NOT DEAD. This is the normal, healthy molting position.11 A dead tarantula will be found in a "death curl" upright, with all its legs curled tightly underneath its body.2

During the molt, the spider is at its most vulnerable. The process can take anywhere from 15 minutes to over 12 hours. The keeper's instinct, seeing their pet on its back, fasting, and lethargic, is to "help." This is a fatal mistake.

THE RULE: DO NOT DISTURB. Do not touch the tarantula. Do not spray it. Do not "flip it over." Do not allow children, pets, or especially live prey near the enclosure.11 Any disturbance can cause the tarantula to become "stuck" in its old exoskeleton, which is almost always fatal.

Post-Molt Care

After the molt, the tarantula will be exhausted, pale, and extremely soft. Its fangs will be white, soft, and useless. It must be left alone for 3 to 14 days (longer for larger spiders) for its new exoskeleton and fangs to harden. Do not offer food during this time. Ensure its water dish is full, as it will be dehydrated.

VIII. Health, Safety, and Troubleshooting

Nearly all "illnesses" in tarantulas are not diseases, but iatrogenic conditions—that is, they are problems caused directly by keeper error. This means they are almost 100% preventable by following correct husbandry.

Risk Analysis 1: Handling (The Real Dangers)

Risk to Human:

Bites: Rare and not medically significant for beginner species.1
Hairs: A common reality of New World species. They will cause an itchy, annoying rash. Wash the area and do not touch your eyes.

Risk to Tarantula:

A Fall Will Kill Your Spider. This cannot be overstated. A fall, even from a short height, can rupture the abdomen and is fatal.2 Heavy-bodied terrestrial species are more fragile in a fall than lighter arboreal species.2
Stress: Handling provides zero benefit to the tarantula and is a significant source of stress.

If handling is absolutely necessary (e.g., for rehousing), sit on the floor. Coax the tarantula onto your hand; never grab it. Ideally, have a soft pillow on the ground below.

Risk Analysis 2: Common Ailments and First Aid

Dehydration:

Signs: The tarantula's abdomen will look shriveled, wrinkled, or "dimpled". In severe cases, the tarantula will be unable to support its own weight and its legs will curl under its body while upright—this is the "death curl".
Treatment: This is a husbandry failure (failure to provide water). Create a "Tarantula ICU": place the spider in a small, secure container with a damp (not soaking) paper towel.12 Ensure its water dish is full.

Mites:

Signs: Tiny white or tan specks crawling on the tarantula, in the substrate, or in the water dish.
Treatment: Most mites are harmless soil mites that are attracted to a dirty or too-moist enclosure. They are a sign of husbandry failure (leaving uneaten food or keeping the substrate swampy). Clean the enclosure, let it dry out, and stop leaving prey in the tank. A non-chemical trick is to place a small piece of rotting fruit in the enclosure; the mites will swarm to it, and the fruit (and mites) can be removed.

Bad Molts (Dysmorphic Molt) and DKS:

Bad Molt: When the tarantula fails to exit its old exoskeleton or emerges deformed (e.g., with a missing leg). This can be caused by old age, injury, or incorrect environmental conditions (e.g., too dry). It is not always fatal, and deformities are often corrected in the next molt.
DKS (Dyskinetic Syndrome): A serious neurological condition with no known cure.

Signs: Jerky, uncoordinated movements, "walking strangely," loss of motor control, inability to eat.13
Causes: The exact cause is unknown, but leading theories point to environmental toxins, specifically pesticides (e.g., flea treatments for a dog or cat used in the same room) or molds growing in a wet enclosure.13 This is almost always fatal.

IX. Acquiring Your First Tarantula

The source of the tarantula is the beginner's first and best act of preventing the health problems listed above.

The Debate: Captive-Bred (CB) vs. Wild-Caught (WC)

Wild-Caught (WC): This animal was taken from its native habitat.14 These are, unfortunately, often the tarantulas sold at large, non-specialist chain pet stores. They are a high-risk purchase.

Cons: They carry a high risk of parasites and disease, are of unknown age and health history, are often stressed and in poor condition, and their trade is ethically questionable.14

Captive-Bred (CB): This animal was bred and raised in captivity by a breeder or hobbyist.14
Pros: They are disease-free, of a known age, are acclimated to captivity, and their purchase is ethical and supports the hobby.14

Where to Buy

Reputable Online Breeders: A primary source for hobbyists, offering a wide variety and shipping directly to your door.
Reptile/Invertebrate Stores: This is the best option for a beginner. At a store, a novice can see the animal, speak directly to educated staff, and purchase all necessary supplies (enclosures, substrate, feeders) at the same time.

X. Conclusion

The tarantula is not the fearsome monster of popular myth, but a fragile, low-maintenance, and fascinating display animal. Its successful keeping does not require complex interventions, but rather a specific, stable environment and a guardian who understands its biology.

The keeper's role is not to "tame" or "play with" their pet, but to be a passive guardian. This involves providing three simple things: a secure, well-ventilated enclosure; a constant source of fresh water; and safety from its own food. The most profound challenge for a new keeper is to overcome the instinct to "do something" and to learn, particularly during the critical molting process, that the best husbandry is often the wisdom to simply step back and observe.

Works cited

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What You Really Want in a Tarantula Terrarium - The Tye-Dyed ..., accessed November 10, 2025, https://thetyedyediguana.com/blog/what-you-really-want-in-a-tarantula-terrarium/
Invertebrates: Spider Keeping Basics - The Tye-Dyed Iguana ..., accessed November 10, 2025, https://thetyedyediguana.com/blog/invertebrates-spider-keeping-basics/
Tarantula Sling Husbandry – A Comprehensive Guide | Tom's Big ..., accessed November 10, 2025, https://tomsbigspiders.com/2016/08/26/tarantula-sling-husbandry/
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How Do I Know if My Tarantula Is in Premolt? | Tom's Big Spiders, accessed November 10, 2025, https://tomsbigspiders.com/2014/08/11/tarantula-premolt/
Tarantula ICU — The Bug Chicks, accessed November 10, 2025, https://www.thebugchicks.com/articles/arthropods/tarantula-icu
DKS (Dyskinetic Syndrome) in Tarantulas | Tom's Big Spiders, accessed November 10, 2025, https://tomsbigspiders.com/2014/05/24/dks-dyskinetic-syndrome-in-tarantulas/
Wild Caught Vs. Captive Bred Tarantula: What's The Difference?, accessed November 10, 2025, https://www.tarantulaheaven.com/wild-caught-vs-captive-bred-tarantula-whats-the-difference

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